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All, I sent the question last week about the stock 4:1 to 6:1 pedal ratio. =
Tom H as always has a great solution ready to go and he sent his work deta=
ils. Tom's solution is great and well-engineered for those not wanting to =
alter the firewall.
I don't mind the firewall modifications and since my car is a body only in =
primer the firewall modification is easy. Don't look at the photos if you =
don't want to see the cutting of a Tiger. https://photos.app.goo.gl/aw8dta=
9RoA4uwKRk9
A quick run down of changes.
* stock pedal ratio is 4:1, clevis pin hole is 3" from pivot and the pe=
dal is 12" long.
* Needed to drill a new 1/4 in hole 2" from pivot (1" higher than stock=
) for the clevis. I did build up and grind smooth some extra material with=
the welder to match the thickness
* The plan is to use the standard pedal mount top hole in the firewall.
* Once the pedal was drilled the pedal bracket needed to be shortened a=
nd the lower mount hole moved up by 1" so I trimmed, drilled and welded the=
braket to clear the higher clevis pin
* For the firewall I've cut a piece of steel plate and traced the stock=
holes to overlay on the firewall
* I cut out two slots in the firewall leaving the perpendicular reinfor=
cement braces to allow for moving up the MCs and pushrods.
* I've ordered a 0.7 clutch and 15/16 Brake (Datsun) MC. Once I have t=
hose and am sure of the mounting hole pieces I'll drill the plate bolt it i=
n place and weld it into position. Then I need to sort out the pushrod pi=
n length and retention.
I'm really happy with how the work went over the weekend. Please give any =
feedback if I'm overlooking something critical or if anyone has done anythi=
ng similar.
Also in digging through parts I was trying to decide if I should keep or tr=
ash parts. Specifically, any reason to keep the original Master Cylinders,=
Exhaust manifolds, or generator?
thanks for looking
dan
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<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
All, I sent the question last week about the stock 4:1 to 6:1 pedal ratio.&=
nbsp; Tom H as always has a great solution ready to go and he sent his work=
details. Tom's solution is great and well-engineered for those not w=
anting to alter the firewall.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I don't mind the firewall modifications and since my car is a body only in =
primer the firewall modification is easy. Don't look at the photos if=
you don't want to see the cutting of a Tiger. <a href=3D"https:=
//photos.app.goo.gl/aw8dta9RoA4uwKRk9" id=3D"LPlnk" style=3D"font-family: C=
alibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">https://photos.app.goo.gl/=
aw8dta9RoA4uwKRk9</a></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
A quick run down of changes.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<ul>
<li><span><span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helveti=
ca, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">stock pedal ratio is 4:1, clevis pin hole=
is 3" from pivot and the pedal is 12" long. </span></=
span></li><li><span><span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibr=
i, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Needed to drill a new 1/4 in ho=
le 2" from pivot (1" higher than stock) for the clevis. I d=
id build up and grind smooth some extra material with the welder
to match the thickness </span></span></li><li><span><span style=3D"co=
lor: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;">The plan is to use the standard pedal mount top hole in the firewall=
.</span></span></li><li><span><span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-fami=
ly: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Once the pedal was dr=
illed the pedal bracket needed to be shortened and the lower mount hole mov=
ed up by 1" so I trimmed, drilled and welded the braket
to clear the higher clevis pin</span></span></li><li><span><span style=3D"=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size=
: 12pt;">For the firewall I've cut a piece of steel plate and traced the st=
ock holes to overlay on the firewall</span></span></li><li><span><span styl=
e=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font=
-size: 12pt;">I cut out two slots in the firewall leaving the perpendicular=
reinforcement braces to allow for moving up the MCs and pushrods. &nb=
sp;</span></span></li><li>I've ordered a 0.7 clutch and 15/16 Brake (Datsun=
) MC. Once I have those and am sure of the mounting hole pieces I'll =
drill the plate bolt it in place and weld it into position. The=
n I need to sort out the pushrod pin length and retention.</li></ul>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I'm really happy with how the work went over the weekend. Please=
give any feedback if I'm overlooking something critical or if anyone has d=
one anything similar.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Also in digging through parts I was trying to decide if I should keep =
or trash parts. Specifically, any reason to keep the original Master =
Cylinders, Exhaust manifolds, or generator? </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>thanks for looking</div>
<div>dan</div>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
</body>
</html>
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