--===============3932505586377871138==
--000000000000b3bec105a6d172d9
Ok, I'm going to add some more here.
(1) On the door opening bar, on my Series 3, there was a small wire clip
that went around both sides of the bar. It is a wire, bent 180* in the
middle. Kind of like a hairclip. The open end would go around the bar,
then into a small hole on one side of the channel. The closed end had a
little loop (again, like a hairclip). A screw went through that into a
small hole just above the channel. This helped keep the bar from bowing
out or possibly rattling. I did not see this in the SIV I had. So many
this never made it to Tigers.
(2) On my very late SV, there was a thin piece of felt glued into the
channel (and no wire clip), that I presume was their to avoid rattle.
Maybe that is what you are talking about in your last bullet.
On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 3:49 PM James Armstrong via Tigers <
tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> First off, you are terrific and we are better together. Always.
>
> What I learned:
> - both the window crank shaft and the door opening shaft each use two (2)
> felt donuts or four half donuts(4) per door to set up proper
> door panel position and rigidity
> - Rick has these in stock if you need them
> - the door handle and the window crank have very small rubber anti-rattle
> tubes in the actuator insertion cavity.
> Dr. Ron Fraser gave the dimensions, tentatively as; *Dimensions - .35?
> x .384? .293? thick *
> - the chrome collar should slide easily into the black plastic collar with
> or without spring. If not, make it so.
> - The original fixing pins were tapered so that they could be inserted
> with a positive stop. Almost no-one has these today and new
> ones have been fabricated from nails. Extra assembly effort required but OK
> - remember to check for anti-rattle padding behind the door flat actuating
> plate that goes from the handle area to the latch and travels right
> over the big window mechanism opening in the door
> You'll see traces of old glue where it was. You can use any kind of
> dampener. Prevents a major rattle on door closer/slam
>
> Thanks to all that contributed and lent a hand!
>
> Jim Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083 LRXFE
> Code 86
> TAC #....
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
>
>
>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Ok, I'm going to add some more here.<div><br></div><di=
v>(1)=C2=A0 On the door opening=C2=A0bar, on my Series 3, there was a small=
wire clip that went around both sides of the bar.=C2=A0 It is a wire, bent=
180* in the middle.=C2=A0 Kind of like a hairclip.=C2=A0 The open end woul=
d go around the bar, then into a small hole on one side of the channel.=C2=
=A0 The closed end had a little loop (again, like a hairclip).=C2=A0 A scre=
w went through that into a small hole just above=C2=A0the channel.=C2=A0 Th=
is helped keep the bar from bowing out or possibly rattling.=C2=A0 I did no=
t see this in the SIV I had.=C2=A0 So many this never made it to Tigers.</d=
iv><div>(2) On my very late SV, there was a thin piece of felt glued into t=
he channel (and no wire clip), that I presume was their to avoid=C2=A0rattl=
e.=C2=A0 Maybe that is what you are talking about in your last bullet.</div=
><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail=
_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 3:49 =
PM James Armstrong via Tigers <<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net";>=
tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,20=
4);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;f=
ont-size:10pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">Gentlemen,<br><br></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">First off, you are terrific and we are better together. Al=
ways.</span></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">What I learned:</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- both the window crank shaft and the door opening shaft e=
ach use two (2) felt donuts or four half donuts(4)=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0per</span><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-=
serif;font-size:10pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">=C2=A0 <span style=3D"font-family:ar=
ial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">door to set up pr=
oper door panel position and rigidity</span></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- Rick has these in stock if you need them</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- the door handle and the window crank have very small rub=
ber anti-rattle tubes in the actuator insertion cavity.<br>=C2=A0=C2=A0Dr. =
Ron Fraser gave the dimensions, tentatively as; <em><span style=3D"color:rg=
b(0,0,0);font-family:"New serif";font-variant-ligatures:normal;fo=
nt-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:sta=
rt;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;=
text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;float:none;font=
-size:12pt;display:inline">Dimensions - .35? x .384?=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 .293? thick</span> </em><br>- the chrome collar should slide easily =
into the black plastic collar with or without spring. If not, make it so.</=
span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- The original fixing pins were tapered so that they could=
be inserted with a positive stop. Almost no-one has=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0these today and new ones have been fabricated fr=
om nails. Extra assembly effort required but OK</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- remember to check for anti-rattle padding behind the doo=
r flat actuating plate that goes from the handle area=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0to the latch and travels right over the big window mechanism opening =
in the door</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 You'll see traces of old glue where it w=
as. You can use any kind of dampener. Prevents a major rattle on=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0door closer/slam</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)"><br>Thanks to all that contributed and lent a hand!</span>=
</div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0);background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><br></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div>Jim Armstrong</div>
<div>Mk 1A</div>
<div>382002083 LRXFE</div>
<div>Code 86</div>
<div>TAC #....</div>
</div>_______________________________________________<br>
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<br>
</blockquote></div>
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