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Joe
I=E2=80=99m pretty familiar with wiring but in this case I hesitate to recom=
mend how to change wiring without havi
G a partial schematic.=20
Might you have a schematic or a photo of the back of the Tach?
Coincidentally, Peter Bayer lens Nisongers and is a good friend so I can cal=
l him directly if I were able to see even a hand sketch of your relevant wir=
ing.=20
Then, after a call to Peter. Ayer I might be able to offer a recommendation.=
=20
If it bothers the group to see all these emails you can contact me directly a=
t fast427@sbcglobal.net
Don=20
=46rom Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
Or 203-264-8301 home
> On Nov 20, 2019, at 5:29 PM, Joe Brown <jbbrown1980@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies. They hav=
e me on the right track now. In my new wiring harness I have one white wire=
that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into=
the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach. My tach was r=
ebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics. I ohmed that wire out a=
nd it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor. So should I run a new w=
ire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to t=
hat? =20
>=20
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
>=20
>> On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net> wr=
ote:
>> The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the s=
tarter is cranking.=20
>> As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected an=
d the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor.=20
>> It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to=
the ballast resistor.=20
>> Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor a=
nd see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor.=20
>> And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The b=
allast resistor.=20
>>=20
>> =46rom Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
>> Or 203-264-8301 home
>>=20
>> > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.ne=
t> wrote:
>> >=20
>> > =EF=BB=BF
>> > Hey,
>> >=20
>> > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a questio=
n. When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fire=
s up. But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run posi=
tion it dies. It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when t=
he key is in the start position.=20
>> >=20
>> > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram. The white/blue wire from t=
he solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should a=
lways be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position. Is this corr=
ect? I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start pos=
ition. =20
>> >=20
>> > Any ideas?
>> >=20
>> > Thanks,
>> > Joe Brown
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >=20
>> > tigers@autox.team.net
>> >=20
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>> >=20
>> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427@sbcgl=
obal.net
>> >=20
>> >=20
>>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Joe<div>I=E2=80=99m pretty familiar with wi=
ring but in this case I hesitate to recommend how to change wiring without h=
avi</div><div>G a partial schematic. </div><div>Might you have a schema=
tic or a photo of the back of the Tach?</div><div>Coincidentally, Peter Baye=
r lens Nisongers and is a good friend so I can call him directly if I were a=
ble to see even a hand sketch of your relevant wiring. </div><div>Then,=
after a call to Peter. Ayer I might be able to offer a recommendation. =
;</div><div>If it bothers the group to see all these emails you can contact m=
e directly at fast427@sbcglobal.net</div><div>Don <br><br><div dir=3D"l=
tr">From<span class=3D"Apple-style-span" style=3D"-webkit-tap-highlight-colo=
r: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192=
, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.2304=
69); "> Don's iPhone 203-592-8427</span><div><span class=3D"Apple-style=
-span" style=3D"-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -we=
bkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composit=
ion-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); ">Or 203-264-8301 home</span>=
</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 20, 2019, a=
t 5:29 PM, Joe Brown <jbbrown1980@gmail.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquot=
e></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"ltr"=
>Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies. They=
have me on the right track now. In my new wiring harness I have one w=
hite wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plu=
gged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach. =
; My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics. I o=
hmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor. =
; So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyb=
ack the ballast wire to that? <div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><d=
iv>Joe Brown</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" clas=
s=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <<a href=3D=
"mailto:fast427@sbcglobal.net"; target=3D"_blank">fast427@sbcglobal.net</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px=
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The star=
ter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is c=
ranking. <br>
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and t=
he power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. <br>
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to th=
e ballast resistor. <br>
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and s=
ee if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. <br>
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ball=
ast resistor. <br>
<br>
=46rom Don's iPhone 203-592-8427<br>
Or 203-264-8301 home<br>
<br>
> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <<a href=3D"mailto=
:tigers@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrot=
e:<br>
> <br>
> =EF=BB=BF<br>
> Hey,<br>
> <br>
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a questio=
n. When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and=
fires up. But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to th=
e run position it dies. It seems like the ignition system is only gett=
ing power when the key is in the start position. <br>
> <br>
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram. The white/blue wire f=
rom the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there sh=
ould always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position. I=
s this correct? I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is i=
n the start position. <br>
> <br>
> Any ideas?<br>
> <br>
> Thanks,<br>
> Joe Brown<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> <br>
> <a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">tigers@autox=
.team.net</a><br>
> <br>
> Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=3D"noreferrer" t=
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers"; rel=3D"norefe=
rrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers</a> <a href=3D"=
http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</a><br>
> <br>
> Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fa=
st427@sbcglobal.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427@sbcglobal.net</a><br>
> <br>
> <br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</div></blockquote></div></body></html>=
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