Mayf,
When you measure your temp senders, they need to be at the exact same
temp. At your readings, you must
be measuring a a low (room temp?) temp. That would put them on the
exponential part of the curve so temp
is real critical.
Have you found Stu Brennan's excellent article on gauges?
at:
http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/BrennanGauge/rt-BrennanGauge1.asp
Gary
On 10/1/2016 7:21 AM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers wrote:
>
> I have 2 new regulators now. I bought an MGB unit and one of Theo
> Smits designs sold by him and Tom Hall. Today I am going to try the
> MGB one and it has something just a tad different than the OEM
> Alpine/Tiger one. First is that it is cheaper to build. In that it is
> not assembled with a pair or rivets. Case is crimped onto the board.
> Next is that it is directional in mounting with the word TOP on the
> side where the wire push on?s are located. And finally, the B input,
> or 12+ volts is the standard female push onto the regulator?s male
> tab. But, the LGG or instrument wires need a male spade to push into
> the regulator?s female part. Makes it hard to accidentally get them
> bass ackward. The mounting tab sticks up because of the TOP so it
> will actually be mounted under the dash brace in the car rather than
> over the top of it. I also purchased a new temp sender and surprise!
> It ohms out at 410 while the current in car mounted, whatever it is,
> has 776 ohms. So something is goofed up. And I am pretty certain that
> the high reading one is my Old OEM unit. I will post some voltage
> results today or tomorrow when I get it installed for testing. I will
> use the electronic version for real though. The MGB one is just for
> back up and to assist you all if yours fails and you want a look
> pretty much OEM.
>
> mayf
>
> _________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
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>
>
>
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