The integral solenoid on my starter draws something like 20 amps. That
was enough to soften the insulation on the white/red wire going from the
ignition keyswitch to the starter, and it ended up touching another wire
and shorting to it. This is what killed my autocross at Suni V... if
Jeff's starter is anything like mine, it should be wired using one of
the little Bosch cube relays to keep the current draw through the
ignition switch at reasonable levels.
I have my MSD 6AL wired with the heavy power wire going to the junction
point that replaces the OEM remote solenoid - it's where the heavy brown
wires terminate in the OEM wiring. The ignition switched wire (small red
wire on the MSD) goes to the 'run' position on the keyswitch; that would
be the white wires on the OEM color scheme. I use the reluctor sensing
on the MSD so the white wire is insulated and taped off; Jeff should
check that whatever triggering scheme he's using, the other wire(s) are
properly insulated and not shorting against anything.
Theo
On 4/17/2013 5:26 PM, Tom Hall wrote:
>
> Guys, Jeff has a 302 crate engine with an MSD 6AL ignition. There is
> no balast resistor that I know of, but then, I didn't wire his car.
> It sounds like he's not getting 12 volts continous from the ignition
> switch and someone has provided the 6AL with the ignition power from
> the white/blue wire from a solenoid. It has run in the past and this
> is a new problem, so something has changed. He was supplied a new
> starter with integral solenoid. I don't know if the OEM remote
> solenoid was retained or discarded. It has to have the 12 volt
> primary to the 6AL, or it wouldn't fire at all. I think the car needs
> some serious wiring help.
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