Joel,
Actually the thicker sized motor mount is correct. I have the old original
mounts for my car among my stock pile of original parts for reference. (
Sometimes I amaze myself...) Mount # C3AA-6B032-H-LH is a bit distorted
sideways but measures 1.35 inches thick on one side and 1.30 inches thick on
the other, Measurements are at the single stud area. The thickness is important
to get the motor to sit high enough in the for far fan clearance of the rack
cross tube. Same goes for those all important 1/8 inch washers between the
mounts and the block on each side.
Buck Trippel wrote a very helpful article on motor mounts for the CAT club
newsletter, not that long ago it seems. He pointed out that there is a lot of
bad product out there. Among other things the angles of the metal stamped parts
are often off and he provided the info on what they should be. As I recall, at
the time good ones could be found at NAPA and perhaps those made by Anchor, but
do not hold me to that. I am not sure I can immediately find the article, but I
will look if you want me to do so. I could probably get to it tomorrow.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2013 11:32:34 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Brake Fluid Capacity and Hi - Torque Starter Question
All
Does anyone know the capactiy of the brake line system with stock Girling
master cylinder and brake booster. We have put in a quart of silicone so far
with none coming out of the wheel cylinders or calipers in front. Leaking
booster internally is now a fear even after rebuilding with no leaks in the
lines so far.
I am trying to use Sunbeam Specialities headers on a 66 MK 1A. This is
proving to be very difficult on a 289 HiPo motor. Fitting around motor
mounts, frame, steering column, starter and now the remote oil filter set up.
If we use the stock motor block to remote oil filter hoses etc up, with one
hose coming out of the center and the other pointing to the front of car, the
one out of the center will be within 1/16" of the front tube header. I am
afraid this would just boil the oil going thru that line. Is there a part
that moves BOTH the inlet and outlet hoses to the front of the car as opposed
to the center and front outlet configuration.
The stock starter appears to have to have the passenger side headers removed
or at least loose with motor mount off and now bench testing starter even
after a rebuilt appears bad.
Does anyone know of a manufacture and part number for a hi torque EXTERNAL
soloniod
starter that works with SS headers? I will call Rick on Monday but thought I
would pose this question to those already having been down this road.
Also, the Federal Mogel engine mounts rubber are 2 different size thickness
with the same thickness. One being 1.25" and 1 being 1" thickness putting
undue stress on 1.25" side with twisting in place - I will have to find
another 1" if that is the correct one, which I think it is. Ideas?
Challanges, challenges.
Thanks in advance.
Joel Martin
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