Based on having done this several times:
In order to replace the oil pump you need to pull the pan and then the pump -
nothing else although IIRC you may also need to pull the starter to get access
to three or four of the pan bolts. This can be done pretty easily from under
the car.
The oil pump drive rod has a spring clip that's supposed to keep it from
pulling out if/when you remove the distributor. However, the clip can slide on
the rod with moderate force, and it's possible to pull the pump rod out of the
pump when removing the distributor, and this can cause the rod to fall into
the oil pan before you realize what's happened.
You can buy an ARP heavy duty oil pump drive rod that has a more pronounced
shoulder and it will keep the rod from pulling out the top.
With stock bearing clearances, heavy duty (high-pressure/high volume) oil
pumps place significant extra load on the cam and distributor drive gears; if
your oiling in this area is at all deficient, you'll wipe out one or both of
these gears and this would then require a full teardown to get rid of the
metal bits.
A heavy duty pump should probably only be used in a high RPM engine, where the
bearing clearances have been increased to provide sufficient oil film at high
speeds.
Best regards,
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Karl Adey
> Sent: January 30, 2013 2:36 PM
> To: The LIST Post
> Subject: [Tigers] Valve Train
>
> I installed a high output oil pump in my stock 260 when having the
> engine rebuilt. Now I'm having second (and potentially
> expensive/delaying) thoughts.
> So the 260 is very nearly stock, except for the oil pump, hardened
> valve seats, valves, springs, hydraulic lifters, roller rockers and
> pushrods. All are mid performance items from reputable/ Made in USA
> companies. Stock block, heads, oil pan, cam, crank etc.The
> instructions for my roller rockers (COMP
> Cams) says that if I put in a high pressure oil pump I need a "set of
> valve train oil deflectors to put over the rocker arms, ensuring that
> the oil does not shoot over the top of the rockers." To avoid galling
> of push rods, rod seats, pivot ball and rocker.Looked up valve train
> oil deflectors and have only found for "Chevy and Ford 302" from
> Moroso. Not only is that not my application, the listing says that
> extra clearance may be needed at the valve cover and I REALLY wanted to
> use original 'chrome' valve covers. Not to mention, the pictures of
> the deflectors look as though they are nearly the same distance from
> the rockers as the valve covers would be...I also read somewhere some
> other, maybe related, negative comments about high volume/pressure oil
> pumps. At this point I'm almost tempted to change it out,
> but would really prefer not to. It is my understanding that the oil
> pump rod
> uses gravity to stay in place. Is it possible to replace the unit from
> bellow? Without removing timing cover/ bell housing?I appreciate any
> insight
> offered.KarlMK1
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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>
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