Hi John,
You shouldn't go banging on the rods with a screwdriver... that will mark up
the surface of the rod, and there is pretty much no place on a connecting rod
where that is okay. On the one that didn't go back together, if you didn't hit
the cap bolt and it came apart without problems, then you've almost certainly
bent the rod.
The only way that it's even remotely safe to hit the rods to try and get the
pistons out, is to use a block of wood or maybe a brass drift, and hit it on
the bearing surface (leave the old bearing in, you're replacing that anyway)
directly in line with the beam of the rod. This would probably require removal
of the crank in the first place.
As was suggested, ATF and acetone is a powerful rust penetrant. When you do
get everything all apart, send your rods to the machine shop and have them all
checked for straightness and squareness and then resized on the big end.
Years ago I had to remove frozen pistons from a block... it took a lot of
penetrating oil and other lubricants, plus some pounding back and forth (going
down first is likely more effective at getting things unstuck - then you can
try to budge them out as a second step). I don't think I reused any of the
reciprocating parts afterwards. If you do whack the pistons to the bottom of
the bore, you can then go into the bore with a glaze breaker hone and clean
out the worst of the rust before trying to move the pistons outward.
Good luck,
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of johnp@ciseast.com
> Sent: December 19, 2012 6:09 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Removing frozen pistons
>
> I am disassembling a 289 but have two pistons that I can't get to slide
> out.
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