No question that clean passageways help :) Tigers as well as Alpines :)
Allan Ballard
Mk1a
S1, SIV, SV Alpine
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 22, 2012, at 12:17 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
> I had a similar thing happen when I rebuilt my 1725cc Alpine with almost
1900cc (yeah, I know, a staggering increase - 8x that increase and I'll just
scratch a 260), and the higher performance head, cam and Webers. But, what I
have always felt actually happened was that during the rebuild, all the sludge
in the block was removed and the passageways in the head were all cleared, so
that it just was a better working system.
>
> Jay
>
> On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 6:18 AM, Allan Ballard <aballard@ix.netcom.com>
wrote:
> Mark,
>
>
> My experience has been the opposite.
>
> My stock 260 ran hot, too hot for idling in Atlanta
> traffic.
>
> The replacement 289 building ~270 rear wheel
> horsepower will idle forever in 100 degree Atlanta
> traffic without going over 200 degrees.
>
> The suggestions in the United article Do work.
>
> I forgot to add that I also installed a smaller
> pully along with horn hole blocks and a pusher
> fan, with a recored stock radiator.
>
> Allan
> Mk1a
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 21, 2012, at 1:31 PM, CoolVT@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Allan,
> > With a stock engine I think the problem is much easier solved. Double
the
> HP and it doubles the trouble.....it seems.
> > Mark
> >
> > In a message dated 3/21/2012 1:02:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> aballard@ix.netcom.com writes:
> > After reading the tech articles, I added a pusher fan and horn hole
blocking
> plates.
> >
> > The radiator was recored to stock specifications.
> >
> > The PO had added a 6 blade water pump fan.
> >
> > Now my Tiger will idle for an hour or more in 100 degree Atlanta heat
> without going over 200 degrees.
> >
> > I will also seal the bottom of the shroud this summer which should help a
> few degrees.
> >
> > Allan Ballard
> > Mk1a
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Mar 21, 2012, at 12:42 PM, "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Mark,
> > > I don't think that there are any quick cooling aids for the Tiger - all
> of
> > > them require attention to detail to get more than just a marginal
> benefit.
> > >
> > > The Cressida fan is about 12" diameter and has an integrated steel
shroud;
> it
> > > just barely fits below the sheetmetal in the nose. I used foam adhesive
> tape
> > > to seal the gap between the rad matrix and the shroud. The problem you
> always
> > > have with pusher fans is that the motor obscures some of the available
> area; a
> > > second thing is that if the gaps aren't filled, then the air can just
go
> out
> > > the side rather than through the radiator. The reason why I used this
fan
> is
> > > that it was evidently designed from the outset as a pusher application.
A
> lot
> > > of aftermarket fans are designed as a puller, and then when they're
used
> in a
> > > pusher application they really don't move anywhere near the air that
> they're
> > > supposedly rated at.
> > >
> > > The only thing that would be nice is to have a similar fan, but larger,
> so
> > > that it would move more air over more of the radiator. You'd end up
with
> part
> > > of the fan output deadheading against the lower radiator support
though.
> > >
> > > Moving air through half the rad should be more than sufficient, since
the
> fan
> > > is only required to boost airflow at low speeds. You just have to make
> sure
> > > that the air you're moving is really going through the rad rather than
> around
> > > it, and that it's moving with sufficient speed.
> > > A secondary issue is that if the fan only covers part of the radiator
> core,
> > > are those core tubes actually flowing enough coolant to do the job?
> > >
> > > Theo
> > >
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> > >
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