Thanks for tip. I do and I will double check.
To all...thanks for input on this issue. I did a little tweaking of Carb today
(raised float in one bowl which was low) and also raised idle just a bit (back
to where it was last fall.) Although idle seems a bit fast (950-1000) the
engine does seem to run better and did not stall at all...even after running
at idle for 40 minutes. Will test vacuum and dial in idle mixture tomorrow.
Only issue is that it is still heating up quite a bit. When I shut it down
about a pint of coolant ran out of the hose from the expansion tank. Laser
thermometer was reading 222 @ the radiator...a bit less elsewhere.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: FHSLOTH13@aol.com
To: cars@wt-inc.com ; CoolVT@aol.com ; jliny5@cox.net ;
tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2011 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stalling at idle
Do you have a ballast resistor? My Tiger did the same thing a few years ago
and I found one of the wires to the resistor was disconnected. Plugged it back
in and everything has been fine since.
Fred Baum
In a message dated 5/12/2011 5:00:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
cars@wt-inc.com writes:
Agreed with below but would add any vacuum leak, check your timing. Bad
timing can cause poor idle and heat.
Lynn
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 12:41 PM
To: jliny5@cox.net; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stalling at idle
A quick thing to check that happened to me was a leak in the PVC line.
If
it's sucking air it won't close the pvc valve at idle as it should and
the
car will run too lean and stall. Or if the pvc valve is gummed up and
stuck it might display the same symptoms. When you shake the valve you
should
be able to hear the ball roll around inside.
Oh, and since you lowered the idle last year, make sure the idle screw
is
actually touching and holding the throttle open a smidgen.
At 214 degrees it's hard to believe it's heat related, but I'm sure other
will follow with more items to check.
In a message dated 5/12/2011 3:16:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jliny5@cox.net writes:
Hello All,
Yesterday after a short 20 minute drive I noticed some coolant on the
garage
floor from the expansion tank so I checked the temp with a laser
thermometer.
It measured 214 on the manifold near the temp sender and thermostat. I
did
some tweaking (a thanks to Tom Parker) which included tightening all
hose
clamps and tightening the fan belt. For background, my 260 has the the
LAT
1
Induction system and the LAT 20 perfromance cam. I have a stock radiator,
horn
hole covers and a 6-blade fan.
Today, to check on my tweaks I took it for a longer ride, almost one
hour.
It
included highway and traffic, in fact I got caught at a RR crossing for
5
minutes. When I got home I noticed the engine was running a bit rough at
lower
RPMs. I let it idle in the garage but it stalled after about a minute. I
started it up again (a couple of tries--usually turns over first time). I
let
it idle but again it stalled. Did it again, this time I increased RPMs to
see
if it was getting fuel...revved up fine. Brought it back down to idle and
it
stalled again after a bit.
I checked the temp readings again with laser thermometer: 214 at Temp
sendr,
208 @ thermostat, 214 @ radiator, and 198 @ expansion tank. No fluid on
floor
from expansion tank.
Sorry for the long-winded explanation...here is my question.
Is this heat related or do you think it is something with the carburator.
I
lowerd the idle last fall because I thought it was idling too fast...now
after
operating for a while it stalls.
OBTW...it was a beautiful drive and the car ran fine.
Thanks
Jim Lindner
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