No problem. :')
You do raise an interesting point though. British cars (like my MGA) have
a carbon-
faced bearing that wears - not a bearing at all in the conventional sense.
However, the same issue of contact and excessive wear would exist.
I do know that the clutch hydraulics were designed to allow backflow of
fluid - perhaps bearing
contact was the reason for this?
In any case, I can see that the Tiger release bearing WOULD benefit from
using a spring.
Paul
drmayf <drmayf@mayfco.com> wrote on 05/31/2010 05:23:57 PM:
> Paul, let me chime in here on your thread... no criticism of your
> message...
>
> Cars from teh era of our Sunbeams had mechanical clutch actuation
> schemes. her was a cross bar with a couple of levers and a big return
> spring. Clutches were adjusted so that the clutch pedal has a bit if
> free play at teh foot. Not much but always some. That was to keep the
> throwout bearing from riding continously on the clutch forks. Our throw
> out bearing were not intended to runn on teh clutch fingers full time.
> Now along comes Sunbeam and probably others. They used the hydraulic
> clutch actuation system because getting a mechanical clap trap to work
> would heva been difficult at best. So hydraulic was really good for
> making them work. But, the hydraulic versions keep teh throw out bearing
> surface in constant contact with the clutch fingers. Thats why they
> wore out and make lots of racket in teh olden days. I had to replace
> mine a time or two and indeed every time I had the engine out, I changed
> that sucker. Todays clutches and throw out bearings generally have a
> higher tolerance for running in full contact. So if replacing, try and
> get a hydraulic throwout bearing designed to run in full contact all the
> time. Ditto for the clutch fingers. And you'll be a happier camper...
>
> mayf
>
> Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com wrote:
>
> >Hydraulic clutch slaves are self-adjusting and a return spring is not
> >needed (at least that's what other British cars do). The piston moves
up
> >the bore as the clutch wears. So just fit a pushrod that almost bottoms
> >out the piston to start.
> >
> >Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >>Subject: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment
> >>There's been lots of talk about throwout bearings. I wonder...
> >>
> >>Is there a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
> >>
> >>The original slave push rod in my Tiger was a cut off carriage bolt.
> >>
> >>
> >When I
> >
> >
> >>replaced the clutch the first time it lasted less than a year. My
theory
> >>
> >>
> >at
> >
> >
> >>the time (1984) was the slave cylinder was sticking, so I installed a
> >>"return spring" on the pivot arm. It worked until the car was
> >>"de-comissioned" around 1995. Now that I'm in the process of restoring
> >>
> >>
> >the
> >
> >
> >>car I bought the proper push rod from Rick at SS. To my surprise, it's
> >>adjustable! A good thing except.... there is no mention of the
> >>
> >>
> >adjustment in
> >
> >
> >>the workshop manual.
> >>
> >>So.... any thoughts on adjusting the clutch push rod? My inclination
is
> >>
> >>
> >to
> >
> >
> >>lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder piston is pushed back as far
> >>
> >>
> >as it
> >
> >
> >>will go. but I may run out of threads before that. The next
alternative
> >>
> >>
> >is
> >
> >
> >>to adjust the rod for proper clutch engagement (starts to engage a bit
> >>
> >>
> >off
> >
> >
> >>the floor, fully engaged with pedal "slack" travel at the top. About
the
> >>same as with my '57 Ford in 1963.
> >>
> >>A bit of guidance will be much appreciated. I have no desire to pull
the
> >>engine again.
> >>
> >>Tom
> >>'67 Tiger 2
> >>
> >>
> >_______________________________________________
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