Removing the engine out the top can be done, just barely, if you have stock
valve covers and oil pan. If you have taller valve covers, aluminum heads,
and/or a road race pan with kickouts, then the engine will not go out the top
without removing the crossmember.
Removing the engine out the top also requires a hoist with a more-than-average
amount of reach, and you'll at some point have a 500 pound assembly dangling
six or seven feet in the air, above your car. Lots of potential for damage and
personal injury if anything should go even slightly wrong, and things could go
from slightly wrong to very wrong in a heartbeat.
To remove the engine and transmission from underneath, you need to raise the
entire car off the ground. 12 to 15" jackstands will do for the rear axle, but
in front you need to eventually have the car high enough that the engine
assembly can go either underneath the front valence or out through the
fenderwell opening (there is more clearance there).
I've done mine twice out and in through the bottom. Tried out the top, once,
but that failed due to the oversize oil pan.
I usually support the rear of the car under the leaf spring perches on the
rear axle. I jack up the front of the car and support it under the forward
outside ends of the X frame under the car.
I remove the front suspension with rack attached as a unit after removing the
wheel. Some people do it with wheels attached but I find it more manageable
without the extra mass attached. I use a 1x6 that spans across the
crossmember, basically from one fulcrum pin to the other, to lower the
crossmember after removing the attaching bolts, disconnecting the steering
U-joint, and the brake line.
With the crossmember out of the way, and the rad removed, I disconnect the
exhaust and loosen the headers. Support the engine (hood removed) from above
with the hoist, then remove the engine mounts and the transmission mount
(support the transmission with a jack from underneath) and take off the
headers. Remove the shift linkage from inside the car. Then the engine can be
slid forward and up, to get the tailshaft out of the center of the X member,
then lower the tail of the transmission, then everything goes back a little to
get the nose of the engine clear of the radiator crossmember and you can set
the engine on the floor. It's preferable to set the engine on a rolling cradle
that can support its weight... a creeper isn't good enough.
At this point I use the hoist to pick up the front of the car and raise it
higher to reset the jackstands, and then I can get the engine out the side or
front of the car.
(and in the finest Haynes manual fashion:) Installation is the reverse of
removal.
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO
> Sent: April 7, 2010 3:56 PM
> To: Steve Ralsten; Tiger email list
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test
>
> Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or
> information.
> I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and
> install
> engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that
> the
> procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands,
> removing
> the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then
> hoisting the
> engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty
> doable.
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