Yes, clean is VERY important. Here is a link what happens when the pump gets
scored due to metal injestion and the shaft twists apart -
http://www.adamcarolla.com/CarCastBlog/2010/02/06/the-ripper-engine-removal/
You can see pics of the pump and related parts. The pump shaft in this case
did not twist, but sheared the hex tang off. Lots of other bad stuff came for
free with that...
Sandy
----- Original Message ----
From: Jerry & Maureen
(Mo) <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET
Sent: Tue, March 9,
2010 11:48:34 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Oil pump shafts
List:
As some of you
remember, awhile back we had a discussion about oil pump
pressures, volumes
and shafts. In this regard, a friend of mine started up
his newly-overhauled
small block Ford engine and was smart enough to pay
close attention to the oil
pressure when he first started up. Shortly
thereafter (a few seconds I
guess), the oil pressure went to zero. He, of
course, shut off the engine,
thereby saving it. He asked me if he could
borrow my distributor shaft that I
have modified to do pre-oiling, so he
could see if he was able to get some oil
pressure. Well, when he turned the
oil pump shaft, it had no resistance
whatsoever. He had to drop the pan and
found the pump was stuck. Apparently,
it had picked up some "trash" out of
the pan, which stuck in the tip recess of
one of the vanes in the pump. It
was small enough that he didn't actually see
it, but it doesn't take much to
lock up the rotor, to snap the shaft, and to
ruin an expensive overhaul.
The lesson is to be VERY particular about
cleanliness. Always pre-oil an
engine before first startup.
I'm not very
computer savvy, so I don't know how to post a picture on this
site. But if
anyone wants to see how a pump shaft twisted up before it
snapped, e-mail me
personally (JCMC2006@suddenlink.net), and I will be happy
to send you a
picture of it.
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
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