I think it was Steve Alcala who made the neatest roll bar I have seen. Two
hoops that were adjustable. They could raise it or lower it, easily I might
add, depending on the top or use. The "base" had to be perfectly parallel
and Steve said it was pretty tough to get it to stay that way through the
welding process. Consequently when I asked if he would like to do another
one he seemed pretty hesitant. For race purposes I think you could add a
section of pipe to take up the space between the hoop and the base (inside
the tube). I was told that would make it compliant but I don't know that.
Others on the list would know better than me.
Anyone that has seen Steve's work knows he is a true craftsman.
Good luck, Lynn
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 10:26 AM
To: Pointers; Theo Smit
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] To roll bar or not to roll bar, that is the
question...
Tiger Tom made his roll bar so it pushes down inside itself to allow for the
fact the two tops(hard and soft) are at different elevations when on or up.
I
dont remember how he kicked(braced) it but the fact it stayed where he
pushed
it, up or down, impressed me.Im sure it was still as safe as possible, Tom
is
pretty sharp and an engineer too IMS He also has the closest to MK7 Lincoln
Sports Coupe in that it has everthing from cruise control, AC,electric
windows
and the list goes on and on.OH- self leveling air ride too as he towed his
show Tiger- hook the trailer up, load the show Tiger and the pull Tiger
leveled out to orginal ride height- just like the Mk7 I had. Im not sure it
had electric defroster in the rear window BUT it wouldnt shock me..
TtT
--- On Sat, 2/6/10, Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca> wrote:
From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] To roll bar or not to roll bar, that is the
question...
To: "Pointers" <gpointer@telusplanet.net>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, February 6, 2010, 9:34 PM
I had a local speed shop bend up a 1 3/4" x 0.120" wall piece of tubing to a
template I cut out of cardboard, and I had them leave a bit of extra length
on
the legs. Then I took the hoop inside the car, with the top up, and I fit it
so that the top corners of the main hoop just push out a little bit on the
convertible top material. Instead of the standard rear stays that run to the
inside rear edge of the parcel shelf, I ran the rear stays to the top inside
of the rear wheel arches, which lets the stays be a little more horizontal
to
give more fore/aft bracing (not that it will hopefully ever be tested).
So my bar fits as high as it can go inside the convertible top, and since
I'm
not that tall I don't think that my head (even with helmet) sticks out above
the bar, but many racing organizations mandate a minimum of 2" between a
line
drawn from the bar to the forward edge of the car (that would be the
headlight
rims on our cars) and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have that much unless I
made
a very shallow seat to sit in.
Also note that drag racing organizations mandate that the rear stays have to
be braced to the rear frame rails of the car, i.e. in the trunk. With our
unibody design I think you could argue that the rear fenders are as rigid a
mounting point as the rear frame rails, but you should never argue with a
tech
inspector so...
Theo
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