Theo- Ive always refered to the by pass as the "heater by pass hose". So, am I
correct in thinking when you plugged your by pass the heater no longer would
work if it was cold weather and I wanted heater on?For whatever unknown
reason, my car runs cooler than even a stock 260 and although it is a 289 with
a mild cam it runs to cool in the winter. I havent changed the thermostat
since I bought the car, I did change out the heads to some larger valve 289
heads w/ screw in studs and a bit of port work.The car came from AZ. and Im
certain the PO had all work done shop wise, including rebuilding the engine.
Im not complaining how cool it runs in the summer- in hot weather, stop and go
in the city, it will show its capable of warming up but not as much as
previous higher HP engines did.Over Thanksgiving I drove to WVa from southern
IL and on the way home, I had to put cardboard in front of the radiator to
stay warm- w/ a hardtop and a few air leaks. It wasnt
running hot enough to be at suggested temps for best performance- 170 degrees
at 70 plus mph and maybe below freezing temps outside,during the night. I plan
on checking the thermostat when I do some pre-spring work, just to see what
temp it is and IF it is stuck open, working properly etc. Thanks for
responding to the bypassing the heater question beforehand.
Tony
--- On Mon, 1/25/10, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> wrote:
From: Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Thanks to all for the great ideas. Re my few unrelated
questions email.
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, "David and Varley Tweddle"
<davidandvarley@hotmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, January 25, 2010, 11:43 AM
I put out a post about that topic near the end of last summer.
Restricting (which is what I did) or blanking the bypass, reduces the
amount of coolant that can circulate in the system without making it
through either the heater or the radiator. The bypass is there basically
to make sure the water pump can draw something even when the thermostat
and heater valves are closed; as soon as the thermostat is open or if
you have the heater on 'hot' then the bypass is redundant and in fact
reduces the cooling ability of the radiators.
Many performance-oriented engine builds block the bypass altogether; I
threaded the bypass orifice 1/8" pipe, drilled a 5/32" hole in an
Allen-head pipe plug and then inserted that into the hole. I then
drilled a couple of bypass holes into the thermostat and found that it
substantially reduced the coolant temperature.
Cheers,
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
> Sent: January 25, 2010 10:30 AM
> To: 'David and Varley Tweddle'; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Thanks to all for the great ideas. Re
> my few unrelated questions email.
>
> Dave
> I'm not sure what your trying to accomplish with
> blanking off the
> thermostat bypass. I did not see those emails. You might want to
> elaborate here and get a few more opinions.
>
> Ron Fraser
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