Use at least the motorsports part or the ARP version. The one that I twisted
up was a ford motorsports version but honestly it was time for the motor to
blow and likely the cold day and big oil cooler and operator not letting oil
get hot before the run is what may have overloaded the shaft. I'm guessing a
limitied amount of oil can be bypassed by the regulator and with cold engine,
thick oil, and a couple of 8K overrevs was a bad combination. "Live, learn and
spend" was the motto on that ;) This BTW is on the race car not a stock motor.
Sandy
----- Original Message ----
From: Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET
Sent: Thu, January 14, 2010 11:40:09 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Oil pump shafts
List,
Someone talked about another important aspect of this oil pump saga, and
that is the pump shaft. Most of you know that have preoiled a fresh engine
it takes a lot of energy to turn the pump shaft (counterclockwise of
course). I've see 3/8 inch drills start to smoke while doing it. (1/2 inch
drills are better). I've also seen pictures of the original shafts twisted
up like a red licorice candy stick, and some that were snapped in half. I
prefer to use Motorsport shaft # M-6605-B302 it has a lot more strength to
it. About $15.00 or so. I just like the fact that it is stronger. It
always amazes me when people start up a cold engine and rev it up to several
thousand RPM how that little skinny shaft doesn't snap.
When I used to fly the "big round engines" like the R2800 (18 cly,2800CI)
When we first fired up the oil pressure would peg at 200 PSI we would have
to wait quite a while before the pressure would come down enough to increase
the RPM above idle. If I remember there was a 30 gal tank of oil in the
nacelle, took a while to get it warm.
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
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