I started with the last post instead of the first- my bad. BUT we need to
remember that a high reading on the gauge might be misleading as the gauge is
reading what is sent to it and because resistance can increase pressure, you
might show high pressure being caused by a restriction in the entire system at
any given point. I think there are signs of a problem when the cold engine had
50 to 55 psi but at idle drops down below 20 after the engine gets warm. Also
a needle bouncing once told me I had dropped a main bearing cap which since I
shut the engine down, caused no problems- trying to start it again pushed the
rod thru the block(Alpine1725) No phone signal BUT I had tools IF I had just
dropped the pan- dirty yes- busted block- NO way. My point is if their is a
restriction in the circuit then pressure can be made to go up- like the water
hose having a spray nozzle- it builds pressure because the water flows thru a
smaller exit- same process-
different cost. Even an engine built to turn high RPM only needs a continuous
flow of oil thru all oil galleries, bearings etc.Engine builders smooth oil
flow passages so the oil can return to the pan faster, remove an edge that
slows down oil flow thru a bearing. Use pumps that allow for more pressure
while Ford pumps have an automatic pop off system built into the pump BUT does
a non Ford oil pump, designed for a Ford engine have this same built in safety
actor? I dont think so. I also dont believe a really high number on the gauge
is necessarily good BUT a consistent number that stays the same is much better
than low pressure at any given time.
Just my opinion.
TtT
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