Tony,
Regarding the MGB arms, just hold them up to the spindle. Then decide
which hole will allow the arm to come the furthest forward and file the
other correspondingly. My recollection is that if the MGB arms hole spacing
is too long you use the back hole and file the front hole towards the rear.
If it is too short you use the rear hole and file the front towards the
front. Sorry, but it has been a few years and I can't remember.
Regarding your previous post about repairing a broken rack arm. My Tiger
had an Alpine arm welded onto it. Looked scary, but it held up for many
years of abuse to previous owners. However, I actually rethreaded the
remaining rod. It took a lot of short cuts (lots of back cutting) and did it
in small depths using an adjustable die. I spent a lot of time with a small
file cleaning the root of the thread. I then used an AMC Hornet split tube
tie rod adjuster and clamps (doubled up) to make up the difference. The
clamping action helps compensate for the fact that the arm is a bit thinner
as it gets closer to the rack. I actually threaded the excess arm without
cleaning the root, put it in a vise and whacked the daylights out of it
(many full swings, 10 pound sledge) without it breaking. So, while not
factory scientific, I did stress the part in question and it didn't fail.
So, it seems the welding hadn't affected the metal heat treatment wise given
the years it was used. I was advised not to cut the threads, but with
little option and careful attention I'll take the risk. In the end I have
infinite adjustment now. Yes, I know the original threads were rolled, but
I'll ask are the internal threads in the tie rod end rolled too? I doubt
it. And, the tie rod end is a lot thinner comparable to the rack arm. For
that matter American cars used the split tube adjuster for years and as far
as I can tell those threads aren't rolled either. If there is a weak link
I'd say that was it, but I've not heard of a lot of failures there.
Tom
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