Steve R and Tigers,
Yes, that's how I did it to install the LAT hood. This hood also had a
metal plate at the rear to hold the striker.
Lot of sweat until I learned the method. Once correctly aligned, front
and rear, and with removal of enough front shims to get the thicker
glass hood to be flush in front, and enough turns of the rear "prong" to
ensure locking - but capable of release or your in BIG trouble. Had to
cut the rear rubber bumpers down to allow the rear of the hood to be
flush, as well. Keep all removed items, in case.
I posted detail instructions, and pictures of my installation partway
down the page:
http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-body9.asp
This was August, 1999, and never had a problem since. Had both front
and rear embedded plates for fastening original hinges and rear latch -
NO chrome posts!
Luck,
Steve
___
Steve Laifman
Editor - TigersUnited.com
<http://www.TigersUnited.com>
sralsten@ca.rr.com wrote:
> Well as much as I hate to admit it I pulled a dumb shit. I did not get
>trapped by a cable break as most seem to I have the rod and just screwed up. I
>remounted the striker plate to the bonnet after having it welded to end wobble
>problems. I did not take time to be sure it was lined up for proper contact
>with the latch before closing the bonnet. It is not stuck in the down position.
>
> I searched archives for old posts and found one written by Steve Laifman.
> It indicated the way in was through the grill and removal of the bonnet
>hinges.
>
> One, is this really the best/only way in and how many bolts per hinge are
>there ?
> I see 4 threaded parts per hings that have no bolts at all. I assume they are
>female receptors of a screw from above. In addition I see two bolts per hinge.
> I assume these are the ones to remove. Thanks for confirming or correctiong me
>
> Steve R
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