Are the original iron heads you're planning to keep, the 260 ones? You
should be careful (CC the heads) to not end up with an unworkable high
compression ratio. Either 260 or 289 heads will have 1.67/1.45" intake
and exhaust valves, while later 302 and 5.0 heads have 1.78" intake
valves.
351W heads use 1.84/1.54" valves, and 1.94" intake valves are available
in the aftermarket. If you're rebuilding heads and installing hardened
valve seats, then there is little extra cost involved in changing the
valve size, provided that the casting has enough beef in the right
places and you're willing to do the required porting afterwards, at
least to clean up the valve bowls. The OEM Ford heads are all going to
be pretty close to identical on external inspection, so you should
figure out if it's worth refurbishing 40 year old heads compared to a
set that could be half the age and have better drivability.
For street drivability a smaller carb will give better results because
the higher air velocity gives a stronger vacuum signal.
If the Tiger 289 you got is an actual 6 bolt block then you'll need to
source an appropriate bellhousing. If you got a 5-bolt 289 then it's not
an "original Tiger" piece but it will be far easier to retrofit that to
the existing bellhousing and transmission.
Hope this helps,
Theo
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces+theo.smit=dynastream.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces+theo.smit=dynastream.com@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dhhall@bellsouth.net
Sent: June 6, 2008 5:17 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] engine ancillaries
My engine is at the shop, and I'd like some advice about ancillaries.
My goal is a largely stock, or period available, with adequate power for
touring, and good driveability. I have a Mk 1A, whose original 260 had
too many freeze cracks to salvage. I was able to buy an original Tiger
289, and it has needed to be bored .030 over. I am retaining the
original cast iron heads, new mild cam for a bit more torque, new taller
valve springs, hardened valve seats. I'm inclined to use the Edelbrock
carb, but wondered 500 or 600 cfm? I presume a manual choke. Thin
carb spacer? Using the Mk 11 timing cover, must I use the cast iron
water pump, or can I use the aluminum. I don't think I want a high
volume one. For the flywheel, a lightened steel one, or aluminum? And
probably a Centerforce clutch, per the recent discussions. Thanks for
all the help, this list is great. David
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