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Re: [Tigers] Over Heating in traffic

To: "'Smit, Theo'" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, "'Stu Brennan'"
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Over Heating in traffic
From: "Lynn Wall" <cars@wt-inc.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 17:26:56 -0600
One thing I found was that on some manifolds the temperature sender sits
above the flow of water.  This was due to the various adapters used to
install the stock sending unit (straight threads????) in the typical
aftermarket manifold (tapered threads???).  I noticed this when I was trying
to debug my tiger.  I unscrewed the sending unit and a small amount of air
came out prior to the coolant.  My process is now this.  Fill up the
coolant, run the car. Bleed the sending unit.  I'm  not sure if it helps but
I know I have removed this as a variable.

Other suggestions for you and all.  Most of these were given to me by others
on the list:

I agree with the timing issues.  Too much advance at idle causes bigger
problems at speed.
Same issue with carburetor adjustments
Try the various block off suggestions
Read the Tigers East article on cooling.  You can find a link to their
website on the tigersunited.com 
I went to the Derale fan as suggested in the article
New radiator (you or the po have already done this)
Make sure the gauge and the sending unit are calibrated to each other

While there is no simple fix and rarely does one of these solve the problem,
it can be solved.  I have employed all of these and my car runs cool.

Good luck,

Lynn

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces+cars=wt-inc.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces+cars=wt-inc.com@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Smit,
Theo
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 1:54 PM
To: Stu Brennan; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Over Heating in traffic

Hi all,
Stu is right, I oversimplified the description of what the voltage
regulator does. Most often, when the gauge voltage regulator fails and
the gauges still appear to work, the gauges end up reading high because
they're being fed a steady battery voltage, which could reach to 14
volts when the engine is running. So the easiest test for proper
operation of the regulator is that its output is switching between 0
volts and the battery voltage... You might be able to see this with a
meter or with a test-light (if it's a LED based test light, it responds
much more quickly to the regulator switching than a regular bulb).

In John's case he's asserted that he's using a mechanical gauge so the
regulator is not the problem... But for anyone else that is suspicious
of the gauge readings, it's a good place to start.

Theo
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