James,
I built an ugly but workable version of Dan Walters' hub puller and it
worked great. The rear hubs are not that beefy in the wheel flange, so
anything that doesn't pull equally on all four studs (or that doesn't
bottom on the hub flange so that you're only pulling on the studs) is
likely to distort the hubs.
I used 1/2-20 x 3" long Moroso wheel studs (and had to cut them down so
I could use closed-end lug nuts). Even if you can remove the short lugs
without removing the hubs, you're definitely not getting the longer ones
in there without the hubs sitting on your workbench.
You can't remove the brake backing plates without getting the hubs out
of the way first - the best you can do is to drill a 1" or so diameter
hole in the backing plate, as close to the hub flange as you can, and
then maybe you can angle the studs in/out through there.
If you were thinking that you could hammer the studs out by banging them
inwards, think of the load you're putting on the bearings and the center
of the diff (which transfers that banging load to the hub bearing on the
other axle), as well as the impact load you're putting on the hub.
Cheers,
Theo
James E. Pickard wrote:
> After spending 1-1/2 years restoring the Sprite (which has now been sold), I'm
> back to working on the Tiger. I need to install longer bolts for the lug nuts
> so I can use the spacers with the Panasport wheels. But I need to remove the
> rear hubs to do this. I don't have tools RG.188-B and RG.188-d-3 described in
> the shop manual (nor do I expect to find them). What is the best way to
> remove the rear hubs? Since the manual doesn't state otherwise, I assume all
> threads are right-handed. Thanks.
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