The "best available" solution from a pin strength point of view, is
probably Dale A's pins where the minor pin diameter is increased so that
it includes the inner bushing for the control arm. However, that just
moves the problem to the next weak point, which is the four 3/8" bolts
and their mounting in the lower crossmember. I had stresscracks
radiating out from the mounting pads on my crossmember... checked yours
lately?
The better answer from a system perspective is to adopt John Logan's
solution or some variant of it, to retain the outboard end of the pin in
a positive way. This allows the control arm loads to be dumped into the
crossmember over a wider area, and it also puts the pin in double shear,
which is a much better way to control heavy stress loads. Note that John
Logan's solution is not everything to everyone... it doesn't allow
fitment of oil pans with kickouts, and it also doesn't support the pin
in vertical loads. Also, in order to give good support to the pin, every
part of it has to be at least as strong as the pin, and it has to fit
very precisely on the pin, otherwise it will just fret on the pin
bushing and the retaining nut. A better answer would be to extend the
inside pin pushing so that it was a snug fit inside the added outer link
plate.
The take-no-prisoners approach would be to replace the crossmember and
use properly located (double shear mounted) urethane bushings or
spherical bearings to support the control arm, much like what Bob
Hokanson posted last week. It's not stock, but if you want a Tiger you
can drive to 9.9 tenths frequently without putting your front suspension
on a scheduled component replacement cycle, then you have to make some
invasive changes. As Bob said... it's just a bolt-on, no permanent
chassis changes are necessary.
Theo
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