Earl's fittings and hose (especially the Swivel-Seal line and
Perform-o-Flex hose) are great. It costs a little more than the others
though. Follow the assembly instructions exactly, and be prepared to do
the first couple of fitting-to-hose assemblies over... leave your hoses
a little long to be safe. I've always used -10 hose and fittings for oil
related stuff, except for the pressure section feed on a dry sump system
I put together once - that had -12 hardware. If the hoses are each a
couple of feet long and you need sharply angled fittings to get where
you need to go, then the pressure drop starts to add up and it will be a
lot worse if you're using -8 parts.
When I got my Tiger, the PO's mechanic had routed the hoses from the
block to the left fenderwell by going under the frame rail, between the
crossmember and the rack bellows. It had shredded the bellows as well as
rubbed some of the stainless braiding through. I drilled a couple of
1-1/8" holes from the engine compartment to the fenderwell, above the
frame rail and underneath the left horn support, then used a pair of PCV
valve grommets to protect the hoses where they went through the inner
fender.
If you use AN to NPT adapters, then make sure you smooth out the outside
of the male threads on the adapter, if possible use a tap to clean up
the inside of the remote filter mount and/or block adapter, and use a
Teflon tape or liquid thread sealer. If you don't you run the risk of
galling the threads, and that will instantly destroy both parts.
Good luck,
Theo
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