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Re: Hi-Po 289 valve adjustments

To: vesselofgrace@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Hi-Po 289 valve adjustments
From: Diane & Roland Dudley <csx2282@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 15:06:54 -0700
My first suggestion for you is to get a copy of Tom Monroe's book "How to
Rebuild Your Small-block Ford.  It's relatively cheap and has lots of
useful information on this engine, including the HiPo version.  He has a
procedure for adjusting valves that only requires recantation to 3
points.  Each
point allows adjusting 4 to 6 values.

I bought a set of the oil diverters, but have never used them.  I got
lots of recommendations from other Ford owners with solid lifters in the
local Shelby 
club to use an alternative method.  I started with a fresh rebuild, so I
did an initial cold adjustment per the manual's recommended cold lash. 
After driving 
for a few hundred miles, I did a hot adjustment as follows-  I drove the
car around until it was at the normal hot operating temperature, pulled
into the 
garage, stopped the engine and rotated the crank to the first crank
position.  I recommend making up a remote starter switched and having
your breaker
bar and socket ready to speed things up.  I adjusted the first group of
valves for this point.  Then I repeated the whole process the next two
points.  That 
is, I drove around to insure the temperature was up to normal, then
adjusted the next point's valves.  I ended up repeating one of the steps
when I didn't 
feel I had done the adjustments quickly enough.  But usually it goes
pretty fast once you get the hang of it.  Also, I didn't remove the valve
covers until I 
had the crank at the desired adjustment points.  In fact, I only removed
one cover at a time.  One other thing is that I replaced the stock
adjusting nuts 
with Poly-Locks which are a little easier to deal with.  You can get a
special adjusting tool for them, tool.  I repeated this hot procedure
after a few 
thousand more break-in miles. 

After completing the second hot adjustment, I let the car set until it
had completely cooled off, then checked the lash of each valve and noted
the value.  Now 
I have a set of hot equivalent cold values I can use for future
adjustments.  Probably it would be a good idea to do a sanity check rerun
of this procedure 
after a few adjustments.  Or if you're kind of paranoid, maybe just
follow the hot procedure.

Roland





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