Wayne,
While I have no issue with your suggestions on a smooth vacuum canister,
the leak past the leather seal between the canister walls and the large
piston is NOT the reason for loss of fluid. It might be the reason for
low pressure differential across the disc that is driving the boost.
The seal that leaks is the small one ( ~ 5/8 diameter) in the cast
hydraulic cylinder and the long shaft attached to the canister piston.
This is the final barrier between the fluid and the vacuum differential
across the large piston. Once the hydraulic fluid gets past that shaft
seal, it will fill eventually fill the large canister on the hydraulics
side, or perhaps by-pass the leather seal into the intake manifold (and
out the exhaust). The damage was done back at the push rod seal on the
way out of the hydraulic cylinders.
Doesn't hurt to make the canister nice, but that is not the prime
failure for fluid loss. Shouldn't be any either side of the piston, anyway.
Steve
MSN wrote:
>Joey:
>
>Others will likely give you advice on where to get the booster rebuilt. I
>would like to offer a suggestion that I have found to work quite well.
>
>Corrosion inside the vacuum drum tends to be a particularly troublesome
>problem area. What happens is that the brake piston seals (rubber) go bad
>and brake fluid is sucked into the vacuum drum by engine vacuum. The brake
>fluid accumulates and over time saturates the leather vacuum seal ring.
>Brake fluid absorbs water so over time, especially if you do not drive the
>car (and use the brakes) regularly, the inside of the vacuum drum corrodes.
>The result is sticky brakes - they can get stuck on or simply perform
>poorly.
>
>My solution to this problem has been to:
>
>A. Move to silicon brake fluid
>B. Rebuild the brake servo unit
>C. *** Either chrome or nickel plate the vacuum drum inside and out
>***
>
>I then powder coat in black the outside of the drum to make it look
>original.
>
>The end result has been SMOOTH brakes that last even when I don't drive the
>car all that much.
>
>I paid $20 to get a 5 inch drum nickel plated and $100 to get a 7 inch drum
>chrome plated (I prepped the inside surface using sandpaper to remove
>corrosion and get it "fairly" smooth - doesn't need to look like glass). I
>have had good experience with both approaches.
>
>Wayne
>MkII Tiger - since 1997, SV Alpine - since 1972, SIV Alpine GT Automatic -
>since 1975
>
>
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Steve Laifman
Editor
http://www.TigersUnited.com
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