With the advent of digital cameras at reasonable prices I taken to taking
pictures of anything on Ms Moonstone that I'm going to work on. With brakes
this
would work well allowing those in the know to see the setup before it is
broken down. This also helps with reassembly.
Now to the problem on hand.
1. Start at the master cylinder and verify that the wheel closest to the
master is working, if not correct the problem.
2. Go to the next closet wheel and repeat
3. Go to the next "next closest" wheel and repeat
4. Finally, the right rear wheel.
If a problem is found where the front works and the backs don't move to the
connect that directs brake fluid back to the two rear wheels. Verify that the
line has no kinks or blockages. The go to the wheel itself and check that the
brakes are assembled correctly (tech manuals can help you with this).
Next check the wheel cylinder for condition (this means disassembly) replace
as necessary. Check all springs are correctly installed. Then check the
backing plate to see if it is smooth and will not cause enough resistance to
over
come the spring action.
Forget all the above. Completely disassemble back breaks and clean. If
backing plates are rusty or damaged, address this problem. Powder coating or
Teflon
coating of the backing plate can resolve many problems. Make certain all pivot
point are smooth and not a source of increased friction. Check the brake
shoes to see if the edge closest to the backing plate is binding on the plate
itself. If the springs are rusted or corroded, replace them. Reassemble and
test.
Most problems like the one described can be caused by contamination and crude
causing friction that interferes with proper function. Take as much time to
get it right, brakes are not something that should be just OK. Save your car,
my car, your life and my life.
What I described above is a systematic approach to the problem. A stem and
leaf graph or problem tree so to say.
Good luck
Moonstone
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