Steve,
REMOVE the ballast resistor. It is not required, or desired, for the
Pertronix electronics breaker or the full 12 volt coil.
Most early systems on US cars used 9 volt coils, and reduced the 12
volt source to the required 9 volts with a massive resistor. This
resistor was by-passed with the ignition switch when in the "start" (run
the starter) position to enhance the voltage to the coil to 12 volts for
a short time. The coil would burn out if the voltage was not dropped to
9 volts, as it is when the key is released and the switch returns to the
"run" position and puts the resistor back into the circuit.
NON of this is necessary for the Pertronix, and can hurt performance
with low coil energization. Your problem is potentially a miswired
system that supplies the Pertronix Coil only 9 volts. This is
insufficient for that hot coil. Read coil installation instructions.
Remove the resistor and make sure that the 12 volt energizing wire, AND
the "start" position wire are both connected to the input of the
Pertronix Ignitor, per the installation instructions from Pertronix,
Page 2. FIGURE 1. Figure 2 is for 9 volt coils, and I have no idea why
they put this in as an alternative. Mine runs fine as per Figure 1,
using a 12 volt hot Accel coil.
Steve
Steve Sage wrote:
> Hello Bob:
> The ballast resistor was bypassed on installation. I will start
> heading backwards, as you suggest, until I find higher voltage and
> hopefully find what's going on. Thanks for the idea.
> Steve Sage
>
> Bob Palmer wrote:
>
>> Steve - For starters, make sure the ballast resistor isn't in the
>> circuit.
>> Then start at the coil and work backwards with the voltmeter to
>> determine
>> where the big voltage drop (or several small voltage drops) is.
>
>
--
-----
Steve Laifman
Editor
http://www.TigersUnited.com
|