Thanks everyone for the great info. It sounds like my first check will
be the wheel balance and tires. The wheels are wire wheels (which I
would like to replace), and the tires are rather old, but have no
visable defects and 95% of their tread. So, I guess my next step is to
find a shop loacally. Anyone recommend a shop near Torrance, CA?
Also as I stated I would like to just replace the wheels altogether, but
I am not sure where to look. I can't afford new rims yet, but I am
unsure where to look for used ones, what kind of car fits, what is the
lug spacing etc. If anyone has any suggestions, or better yet, a decent
set or rims for cheap (don't need to be perfect, just better than stock
and not wire!), that would be great. Thanks again for all of your help!
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Munroe
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 6:02 AM
To: 'Jen/Scott'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Wheel Shake
Scott;
Almost certainly you have a problem with your wheels/tires. The problem
could be exaggerated by worn suspension or steering components. But
other, more subtle, problems could make your wheels shake the fillings
out of your teeth.
A logical approach to diagnosis would be to first visit you favourite
tire balancing shop. If you have wire wheels, you will need to visit a
specialist who has the equipment to check them for concentricity, wobble
and spoke tightness, as well as mount them on a balance machine.
Tires also can develop problems with their belts that can break or
bruise and swell to cause this wobble effect. A Road Force Variation
(RFV) balance machine will turn up this deficiency in short order, but
don't let them do this test on your wire wheels! Most of them are only
good for 900# of weight, and the RFV machines put approx. 1500# of force
on the tire.
Assuming your wheels are properly true and balanced, and you still have
the wobble, I would next check in order: 1/ wheel bearing adjustment 2/
upper and lower ball joints 3/ fulcrum pins for wear, looseness, or
worse, breakage 4/ steering rack inner ball joint slack 5/ steering
column universal joints 6/ drive shaft universal joints
Once you have all the mechanicals checked and proven sound, an alignment
check is in order. In particular, have the castor checked. This is the
measurement that if incorrect, could provoke the "shopping cart" wobble
you seem to have described.
Bets of luck. This problem plagues many of our cars, and is often very
difficult to correct, if it is much more than a simple wheel true and
balance problem.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
Subject:
What it does is at higher speeds, about 40mph+ the steering wheel shakes
pretty bad, and as I accellerate it seems to get worse. When I really
lay down the gas, it shakes like crazy
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