Bob,
First, on the issue of wandering drill bits, I would purchase a set of
"bullet nose" drill bits of "titanium type". They have a small center
starter bit that reduces wander, and can use even a less aggressive
center punch start. An spring loaded center punch is a very useful
tool, and available cheaply, as are the drill bits (Home Depot, etc.)
I have used the SS nylon pins in the few areas where the original pins
were gone, and they work --- However:
There are some VERY important areas that need more consideration. The
rear most rear fender holder was not a special rivet head, as used
elsewhere, but a threaded bolt into the trunk area that can be reached
behind the removed panels. Mine were a bit worse for the environment
under the trim and needed to be replaced.
The issue is the head of this bolt is rectangular, and thin, and fits
into a relief in the rear stainless trim then the trim is slid forward
so the relief is replaced by attach lip. I made these using stainless
steel small bolts. The standard bolt head is not large enough for the
square trim holder, so I had a nut welded to the screw.
With a set of files, ending with jeweler's files (also cheap from Asia)
I formed the original shape and thickness "head" that fits the slot in
the stainless - measure yours for clearance to enter wider area for
dimensions, as well as the inside clearance at the inner slot. An aid I
used was to keep the head on the original "donor" screw for holding the
work piece in a vice to shape the new head.
After everything is finished I cut off the original head and filed the
screw to have a shape that allowed easy fitting of the holding nut.
This stainless nut and washer (or lock washer) is attached loosely thru
the wall to the trunk. When the trim is slid through the whole strip
the nut is tightened. The new head bears against the inner trim to
prevent rotation, and allows a tight fit.
Similar nut used at front fender.
The original Tiger used these grip nuts to avoid losing the trim to car
motion by firmly "bolting" it to the body. Replacements should do the
same unless you want to see your trim fly by your car on the freeway to
Vegas. No use getting out and dancing with traffic to recover, a
passing car made it toast, and you would be road kill. (9-)
Steve
VegasLegal@aol.com wrote:
>O.k., here's a very very narrow question, but if I know the answer for sure,
>it will help.
>
>The prior owner had the car re-shot in the original black enamel thirty years
>ago. The shop took off the side moldings, and lead-filled the holes rather
>than re-installing. My guess--they removed the moldings and ruined them in
>the
>process.
>
>The prior original owner gave me a set of nos side moldings together with
>nylon push pin expanders she'd purchased from Rick's for connecting the
>molding.
> I am getting the car re-painted and would like to have the holes pre-drilled
>for the post-paint installation of the molding (If I don't do this, I will
>likely travel numerous drill bits across my new paint).
>
>With all this build-up, the extremely minor questions are: Exactly what size
>do I drill the holes for the push pins to install correctly?
>
>For later: Exactly how do those pins work, and what is the sure-fire way of
>getting the molding on without bends or later problems?
>
>Thank you all.
>
>Bob Nersesian
>B382000975
>
>
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Steve Laifman
Editor
http://www.TigersUnited.com
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