Gary,
While your advice may be consistent with aged parts, it is not
consistent with completely re-calibrating the speedometer needle for a
new gear train. That was the intent of the previous posting.
Steve
garywinblad@attbi.com wrote:
>>1) The Speedometer indication can be adjusted with re-
>>
>>
>magnetization of
>
>
>>an age reduced drag magnet and reaction spring that
>>
>>
>makes the needle
>
>
>>read a specific number at a specific cable rotational
>>
>>
>rate. This can be
>
>
>>done over a wide range of incorrect values for the
>>
>>
>rest of the driving
>
>
>>chain (below). Usually it is accurate at the
>>
>>
>calibration speed
>
>
>>indication chosen, and falls off on either side. This
>>
>>
>is normal even
>
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>>with correct driving set-up, but gets worse the more
>>
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>you divert from the
>
>
>>correct set.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Steve,
>
>Rather than re-magitize, I have been successful in doing
>the following:
>If you look at the face down where your revs/mile number
>is located, you will notice a small dot. I believe this
>is the needle pre-load point. This is where the needle
>should sit when you let it go below the spring loaded 0
>stop. Putting the needle back on with more or less pre-
>load compensates for the different magnet attraction
>(well you physics guys might not agree, but it works for
>me!). When I was younger and stupider, I used to drive
>the car at a know speed (by the Tach) and THEN put the
>needle on at the correct speed indication.
>Gary
>
>
>
>
--
Steve Laifman
Editor
http://www.TigersUnited.com
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