Tim, you know that there is a regulator that reduces the 12v to 10 v,
and it may or may not be the problem. It works for the temp and gas
gauge, so if temp only is funny, it may be another part of the temp circuit.
Take temp gauge, sender, and regulator out of car. Put temp sender in
water and measure with good candy or other thermometer. Hook wires to
regulator, gauge, and 12 v source, and see where temp guage is reading.
You can also built a solid state regulator, and others have done the
wiring diagram. I think it was Theo. Joe P did one for me, that I will
add to set the temp and gas to the right reading.
Larry
"Ronak, TP (Timothy)" wrote:
>
> Good idea.
> The weird thing is that the pressure was higher yesterday when I DROVE it to
> the muffler shop. I think it may be that there is some air in the line and
> it is not reading true. It may take some time to bleed itself.
>
> Is there a way to calibrate the temperature gauge?
> I inadvertently touched the lead wire to ground and only noticed when the
> needle in the gauge was no where to be seen. I investigated and found the
> plug laying on the intake. I reattached it but it showed temperature of 240
> and it should have boiled over at that temperature. The gauge sits at 120
> with the key off and almost immediately on firing starts to climb. It seems
> a little too sensitive. Could the higher output of the alternator be causing
> this. Other than the gauge reading in the "scary" zone everything runs and
> works great. As much as I know it would seem that somehow the gauge is
> reading to high for the actual temperature of the coolant.
> Any thoughts or advise out there???
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Tim Ronak
> Business Development Manager
> Akzo Nobel Coatings
> OFF: (949) 305-5393
> VM: (800) 234-6747 ext. 2257#
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Theo Smit [mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 11:10 PM
> To: Ronak, TP (Timothy)
> Subject: Re: It's Alive
>
> I cheated and kept the copper line under the dash. I made a bulkhead fitting
> out
> of a 5/8" bolt - drilled it through and tapped it on both sides to 1/8" NPT
> -
> then I installed it with some large washers in the big hole just above the
> steering column. On the engine compartment side there's a 1/8 NPT to -3AN
> adapter, on the dash side, a compression fitting for the existing copper
> line.
> If I have to disconnect the oil pressure line for any reason, I can just
> remove
> the whole thing from the engine compartment - nothing to tie back out of the
> way
> and get caught.
>
> Theo
>
> "Ronak, TP (Timothy)" wrote:
>
> > I thought the pressure is a little low and was concerned as usually it
> drops
> > once warm but it seems to stay at 30 lbs. Before I panic I may just tap a
> > better gauge in place and see if there is a difference due to the line.
> > Theo, what did you use as a fitting to the back of the gauge to the
> braided
> > hose? It has a weird fitting on it and it seems that it would be hard to
> get
> > something to seal. I put an o-ring in there and used the repro oil line
> sold
> > by Rick at Sunbeam specialties.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Tim Ronak
> > Business Development Manager
> > Akzo Nobel Coatings
> > OFF: (949) 305-5393
> > VM: (800) 234-6747 ext. 2257#
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Theo Smit [mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 12:17 AM
> > To: Ronak, TP (Timothy)
> > Cc: Tiger News Group List (E-mail)
> > Subject: Re: It's Alive
> >
> > Hey, congratulations! It's great to hear you're getting it back on the
> road
> > soon.
> > On the oil pressure thing - the gauge should always read the pressure at
> the
> > block since there is no oil flow down the line to the pressure gauge. No
> > flow,
> > no pressure drop. When the copper line on my Tiger got real scary I
> replaced
> > it
> > with some -3 Earl's hydraulic hose - the stainless braided Teflon type.
> >
> > Theo
> >
> > "Ronak, TP (Timothy)" wrote:
> >
> > > Listers,
> > > After much searching for bits and the help of Paul Parretti I was able
> to
> > > get my Tiger fired. The Lunati 350 Stroker fired on the first try of the
> > key
> > > but I had the wrong wire from the Ballast resistor hooked to the coil so
> > it
> > > would only fire while cranking. 1 minute later I fixed it and it ROARED
> to
> > > life. The entire neighborhood came to see it fire. It was kind of loud
> > > without the mufflers but it sure sounds "bitchen". It has a very loapy
> > > idle.
> > > Hey did I say that it runs?
> > > The only small things found on the road test (That is another story open
> > > headers and all) is that the oil pressure is low idling at around 30
> > pounds
> > > but shoots up to 50+ at 2500 RPM. I am just wondering if anyone else has
> > had
> > > any weird oil pressure issues with the factory replacement line as it
> > seems
> > > very soft when it gets hot. This could be decreasing the actual oil
> > pressure
> > > at the gauge.
> > > The next thing is that while out on the drive I thought I would stab the
> > > throttle and pull second gear quick only to find that it would not go in
> > > $*#?. Has anyone else had this problem with a newly redone toploader?
> Will
> > > it wear in or am I SOL. I am running Mobil 1 80-90 synthetic in the
> trans
> > > and Chevron 20-50 in the engine.
> > > Hey did I say that it runs?
> > > I may have to pull the pan as the pan was really tough to put back on in
> > the
> > > car and the rear seal on the pan may not be sealing as well as I would
> > like.
> > > Hey did I say that I got it running?
> > >
> > > Best Regards,
> > >
> > > Tim Ronak
> > > Business Development Manager
> > > Akzo Nobel Coatings
> > > OFF: (949) 305-5393
> > > VM: (800) 234-6747 ext. 2257#
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