Andy,
I had this problem last fall along with a few issues fitting the cylinder. I
had the same symptoms: one sort of normal step on the brake, then locked up
brakes. After my struggle getting the cylinder in place and properly bled
etc. I wasn't happy. After some head scratching I discovered the problem: on
my replacement master cylinder the indentation where the end of the pedal
clevis fits is much shallower than the original. The effect of this is to
not allow the piston far enough forward (backward I guess, in relation to
the car) to release the pressure on the system. This is not obvious once you
have the pushrod and circlip in place, much less the rubber boot. The best
way to compare is look at the new and old cylinder at the same time with the
piston facing you (sans pushrod). I had mine off the car (again) by then,
but I guess you could crawl under the steering wheel, remove the rubber
bootie, circlip and pushrod.
I got the replacement pedal clevis but if memory serves it had the same
problem, or a related one. I think I ended up cutting the new pushrod to
allow the piston enough forward movement, although I considered cutting the
original, and/or swapping the piston. The basic problem is the distance
between the circlip and the point where the pushrod pushes: you'll have to
find your own best solution.
If this sounds correct but can't arrive at a good solution let me know and
I'll look at exactly what I did: my brakes are great now (for a Tiger).
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andy Walker
Sent: March 26, 2002 5:38 PM
To: Tiger List
Subject: Locked brakes
Hello to all:
A good buddy of mine here in the OKC metro area has a very nice Tiger Mk 1
but
is having some brake trouble with it. We have taken it apart to check
everything but to no avail. I now am coming to the "experts."
Okay, here's the deal. My friend was having trouble with his brake booster
and decided, after a failed rebuild attempt, to just bypass it for now until
he could send the booster off for repair. He bought a new length of brake
line from Sunbeam Specialties and bent up a continuous section from the
brake
master to the brass three-way splitter under the generator. During all of
this, he discovered that his brake master cylinder was leaking profusely out
the back, soaking the carpet at the driver's feet. He opted to purchase a
new
brake master, again from Sunbeam Specialties, and installed it on the car.
I
helped him bleed the brakes on Saturday and I commented on how hard the
pedal
felt to me. After the bleed job, we didn't have time to put the wheels back
on it and get it down off the jack stands, so he finished the job today.
When
he put the wheels back on, he discovered that they wouldn't turn; the brakes
were locked up solid on all four wheels.
Now, we can't condemn the booster as it has been totally bypassed. The new
master cylinder he bought from Rick at SS had, unbeknownst to Rick I'm sure,
evidently been taken apart once before by another purchaser (?) as the
keeper
ring at the back of the cylinder was only half-seated and there was no
actuator rod (Rick at SS says that the cylinders are no longer shipped with
the actuator rod). Consequently, he disassembled the cylinder this afternoon
but could find no apparent faults. In case you're wondering, yes, he did
use
his original actuator rod since there was not one supplied with the new
cylinder. One more thing; he did not touch the calipers or wheel cylinders
other than to bleed them.
In short, there should be nothing in the system, short of a faulty new
master
cylinder, that would be causing this problem. What do you guys think? Have
we missed something here? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy Walker
B382001600LRXFE...(but working on B9473720LROFE)
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