Tom, welding is really an art, and good for you for pursuing it.
Why not just use stitch welds in 1" lengths. Sounds like you can do this with
the welder, and there will be less distortion in the panels due to heat. You
can spot weld first, the go back and stitch. I don't remember any part on the
Tiger that had continuous welds, but I added then, or at least my bodyman added
then on the front frame rails during the body work. Just to stiffen then.
The other thing is to take your welder into a welding shop, and ask them to
look at it. Most of the time, if not busy, they will and it may be the welder
not you.
I am not sure what the duty cycle is for that Lincoln welder, but you could
call Lincoln and ask them about the problem as well.
Larry
Tom Witt wrote:
> 25+ years ago I was competent (though no expert) in arc and gas welding in
> High School. When I got my Tiger I purchased a Lincoln MIG PAK 100 (88 amp
> rating) to replace rusted panels. At times I can get a really good bead
> going for a few inches then !@#$%^&*. I most often am blowing holes in the
> 22-24 guage metal used in the Tiger's wheel wells (and elsewhere). I have
> had no problems with the thicker metal such as the inner rocker panels. All
> my welds have been lap welds and I have tried to keep the puddle closest to
> where the metals lap (thus double thickness).
> Here are the perticulars: I am using the lowest "A" setting, Argon 75%-Co2
> 25% gas (more on the gas pressure later) and have adjusted the wire feed
> both above and below the recommended setting. I try to keep the weld going
> at an appropriate rate, but it seems like the slightest bobble, or change in
> the metal and ZAP!..., a hole in the metal. Then attempts to "fill" it in
> create blobs, unsightly welds and often just extends and enlages the hole.
> Thus, I attempt to grind most of the weld down and go over it again. This
> only perpetuates the problem as the surface is more irregular than before
> and it goes on and on (I'm stubborn). In the end I have a weld I have gone
> over 5-6 times, is a 1/2" wide, and even with extensive grinding still looks
> rather crappy. Today I welded about a foot and a half (yea,that's 18 inches)
> and it took about 8 hr's (weld/grind etc.) to get it looking as bad as it
> does. It really kills me because at times I'll get say 3 inches (in a single
> pass) that look great. I clean all the metal, the wire is not jamming and
> the gas is on. Any tips??? I have tried copper behind the weld (in the few
> cases where I can actually reach to get it there).
> This brings me to the gas. I have used Argon/Co2 feeling I can use all the
> help I can get. A professional welder friend (he welds Aircraft Maintenence
> for Fed-Ex) says 4-6 pounds is all I need. The guy at the gas store says
> 15-20 pounds (but then he's selling the gas). I have been going with about
> 10 pounds, but am really eating the gas. What with all the weld/grinding
> etc. I'm getting maybe 3 linear feet of crappy finished product out of a 20
> pound bottle. Since I have had this welder I have used 5 pounds of wire and
> 60 pounds of gas. Here in Calif it's just about $22 a bottle with all the
> haz-mat stuff etc.
> Should I forgo the Argon (and its cost)? How much pressure should I use?
> Finally, I often find it difficult to see with the mask on. I have gone from
> a # -10 to a # -9 lens. Would I damage my eyes to go to an # - 8?
> Thanks for any help that might come. But please, spare yourself with long
> talks about metalurgy and the like. I am after setting and technique
> information. Thanks, Tom Witt B9470101
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