Steve, if you have a T-5, it is suppose to have ATF. I am surprised that
the shop did not put it in, in the beginning.
You might use Mobil 1 ATF, not that much more expensive, since it will
probably be in there forever, and is a great lubricant.
Larry
SJC Worldwide wrote:
> Hello Listers:
> Here are some updates on my Tiger fun net postings, and further thanks
> to all of you who made some great suggestions and offers of help.
>
> My second Pertonix Ignitor II ignition and Flamethrower II coil have now
> worked flawlessly for six weeks (the first Ignitor failed after a week)
> so hopefully I'm home free. I keep another spare Ignitor, as well as my
> old points setup, in the trunk, just for good measure, but the Tiger
> runs very smoothly, gets better mileage (not why I bought the car
> anyway) and seems to pull more smoothly all through the curve.
>
> After installing the Pertronix, I kept getting mega electrocuted (big
> shocks) whenever I put a hand anywhere near the distributor cap. This
> has been completely solved by installing an aftermarket (MSD) "adapt a
> cap", which is a large cap (much taller than stock, but still fits under
> the hood) and much taller rotor designed for high output electronic
> ignitions. I can put my hands all over the wires and right on the cap
> with the car running now and not get shocked. Another suggestion I think
> I got from the list.
>
> Today I was able to fix an unhappy byproduct of my electronic ignition
> install, a real jumpy tachometer. It would read up to 17-1800 RPM OK,
> but anything above that would cause the needle to jump all over the
> place. I decided to follow a tech tip/suggestion I think I read on this
> list a while back (I apologise as I don't remember who to give credit
> to) to try running a second loop of wire around the plug (with the wires
> from the engine compartment) that fits into the back of the tach. I
> added to the tip by taking an extra "plug" from an extra tach, and
> modifying it with the double wire loop, and fixing "bullet" plugs to the
> wires under the dash and on both the new and old "plugs", so I could
> easily change back to stock if the tip didn't work. I won't have to,
> though, as the double wire loop works and the tach reads very steadily
> all the way up to 5000 RPM. (I'll try for 6,000 tommorow).
>
> When I had installed my hyrbid 5 speed (Mustang trans. with a Chevy S-10
> tail housing), I ended up with a weird, rythmic noise/vibration, but
> only in 5th gear. The trans. shop that built it was sure it was internal
> and so did a few other people who rode in the car. I came "That Close",
> as Don Adams would say, to pulling the trans and getting it gone through
> to get rid of that &**^%@ noise. Now, a new weird thing has happened:
> The transmission has repaired itself! The noise is gone completely and
> the trans. now only make nice sounds related to how fast I'm going. I
> wonder if, instead of the noise having been internal to the trans.it was
> in fact somehow related to exhaust harmonics and something has slightly
> shifted (in my favor) eliminating the source of the noise.
>
> Check your steering wheel tightness on occasion! I've been getting some
> "klunks" from the steering column "cowling" for a while and decided to
> investigate. Upon removing the horn ring and getting to the nut that
> holds the wheel on, sure enough, it was no more than loosly finger
> tight. Not good! I snugged it down tightly. I haven't been on the
> highway yet today to see if the klunking is gone, but at least the
> steering wheel won't be coming off in my hands anytime soon. Here's an
> important tip if you try this at home, though. When you unscrew the
> adjuster piece (after you have the horn ring off), the center threaded
> piece that it holds onto can very easily slide right down into the black
> hole of the steering column. This is not fun at all and has happened to
> me a couple of times. I was barely able to get it back out with long
> screwdrivers, and later figured out to use a magnet "pole" to fish it
> out. To keep the piece from falling in there in the first place, as soon
> as you unscrew the adjuster piece, wrap some tape around the very end of
> the threaded piece, just enough to keep it from falling down there. Then
> you can fit a socket over the steering wheel nut to tighten it and not
> experience the panic I have a couple of times.
>
> Finally, back to my transmission for a question for all of you. It's
> getting too "notchy" during shifts. I've been running straight 30 weight
> in it. I'm told I can also run ATF (automatic trans. fluid in it) and it
> will shift easier with that. I'm going to try it this weekend but, can I
> just drain out the oil and add in the ATF or will having some of the two
> different fluids (oil and ATF) mixing have any adverse effects? Do I
> need to "flush" the transmission somehow?
>
> Well, I'll shut up for now.
>
> Steve Sage
> 1967 MK1A 289
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