Tigers,
Spring has "sprung",
Fall has "fell",
And here comes Summer,
Hotter than - - last year!
Well, yesterday was measured as 103.8 Deg. F. in the shade in the San
Fernando Valley.
I had taken a trip into West Los Angeles, which is always 20 - 30
degrees cooler, then headed back over the 1,000 foot climb of the
freeway at about 1:30 p.m. Something about "Mad Dogs and Englishmen?"
The freeway was bumper-to-bumper stop and go all the way up and down, as
there was a posted warning sign lit up saying that the left two lanes at
the bottom were closed! Well, by the time I actually got there, they
weren't, and traffic picked up westbound to the normal 72 mph.
How hot did the Tiger get?
Glad you asked. Maximum temperature on the long, slow, high climb was
200 F., until about half way up it started to climb until I switched on
the electric fan at 212 F., which brought it back below 200 F., in short order.
On the Valley side (103.8 F. air) it was fine at freeway speeds, as well
as normal 30-35 mph traffic on the city streets.
Figure this is a pretty good test of the entire system.
OK. That's the end of the story. For those interested in the system
design, the following details are provided.
For those interested, here are the details (which are all in the cooling
section of the Tech Tips on http://www.TigersUnited.com Others who have
used some, or all of the same components report similar results. These
include Allan Connell (who used the radiator).
(There is an Aluminum radiator article, under "Contributed Articles", as well.)
Here is the configuration and modifications:
1) Modine Special Order Manufacturing Division "Special High Efficiency
Core" Cross flow. 18 1/2 W x 15 1/2 high (stock). Four parallel rows of
5/16 tubes on 3/8 centers, 36 tubes/row, each 3/8 inch deep by 0.080
wide externally. 14 fins/per inch fin density. This is about $300, built
by radiator shop, and well worth it. Uses stock tanks, and fits stock shroud.
Source (who will ship)
Commercial Radiator Service 864 Los Angeles Avenue Simi Valley, CA
93065 (805-527-3332) (FAX 805-520-1148)
B.A.R. #AG029137 (California Bureau of Automotive Repair shop number)
He calls it a Special High Efficiency Core. Ask for "Ken"
2) High efficiency pusher fan, mounted in front of radiator, shroud
sealed to radiator with standard Home Depot sticky-back rubber foam.
It's a 13" pusher type, 1600 CFM. and I ordered it by phone from Quest
Cooling. 13" is the size that fits. It comes with the "Terminator" motor
and is the maximum size I could get to mount flush with the radiator,
and fit the space. This was a Bob Palmer recommendation. For
information, call 800-272-FANS (3267) and talk with Gary. You can also
write for info catalog to Quest Cooling 25520 Avenue Stanford, Unit 304
Valencia, CA 91355. It comes with relay, fuse and switch. I used a Lucas
SPST like Tiger normal, and mounted it where the "mechanical choke"
never was. Some back side wood trimming is necessary to clear the body
of the switch. When it gets too hot, I turn it on. When it gets OK and
will run stability, I shut it off. One more automatic switch/sensor not
to cause damage to the fins/tubes, or fail.
3) Early Ford 6 blade fan (C4DE-8600-A), with 1" center hole and end
mill trimmed blades (about 1/2 inch). Watch that you still have those
motor washer-spacers between the block and the motor mounts to center
the fan, and make sure you leave them there, or your rack will "re-form"
the fan to fit!
4) Stock water pump (but might change to Edelbrock high flow Mustang 289
HiPo engine model, when I have to.
5) Gant brass filter screen. Might look at soldering/brazing outer ring
with screws from plastic unit to radiator inlet to allow cleaning with
one simple joint disconnection. Maximum value for old blocks and new
small diameter tube cores. Rodding these just jams up the tubes, or
breaks them.
6) Self designed aluminum horn hole air blockers, with slot for horn,
extended horn base, and double sticky tape mount of plates.
7) LAT hood (but ran cool before adding)
8) Laifman custom design air duct between under lower valance inlet
vents and over cross member and radiator bottom, with mounting to side
frame horns. Keeps all collected inlet air going through the radiator,
and prevents by-pass, or even recirculation of hot engine compartment
air into radiator inlet. Invisible, and no hanging "racy air dams" to
catch every road speed bump and parking lot wheel stop.
9) Overflow mini 1 1/2 Qt. coolant return-recovery system mounted
between surge tank and radiator on left fender. Interdynamics MCR-3,
about $5 at Pep Boys. Need recovery type 13 lbs cap. I used a Stant
"Lever Action" safety pressure release. Most surge tanks do NOT have an
overflow tube that is air/vacuum tight at the metal, no matter how well
you do the hose. Never intended to suck. Probably needs brazing to tank
neck, and perhaps a bead to hold the hose on better. If you ever find
those bolts for a tank strap, with the proper threads and a straight,
unthreaded tip, let me know. It would be great for lining all that stuff
up to R&R the straps.
I cannot tell you which portions of this overall design approach
contribute what, but most are easy to do, and the radiator and fan are
mandatory in this environment, and represent the greatest cost. The
brass Gant is going to save your replacing a radiator soon, and I do
believe the air containment/guidance system is very effective, easy to
make and install, and inexpensive.
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
<SLaifman@SoCal.RR.com>
<http://www.TigersUnited.com/gallery/SteveLaifman.asp>
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