Here are the comments I received about my question of Dale's rear springs
and Koni shocks. I left out the discussion about new/old versions of the
shocks' adjustment.
This is fairly long, so delete if not interested.
Mark
B382000974
Hi Mark:
I ran a set of springs from Dale a few years ago and found them way too
stiff for my taste. I don't know if he makes varying degrees of stiffness,
but this particular set has four leaves and the same size eye on both ends.
When I talked to Dale about the stiffness, he said to remove one leaf and
try it (these leaves are substantially thicker than the stock Tiger
springs).
The reason I wanted something a little stiffer than stock was that when I
installed a 302 roller motor, the rear was squatting and I was getting tire
interference when I got on it hard -- especially with two people aboard.
Instead of removing a leaf on Dale's springs, I went back to the stock
springs and had a shop make one heavier leaf, which I used to replace one
stock leaf. It worked fine for me. No more bottoming and it rides pretty
good.
I've had good luck with several of Dale's other items and have been running
one of his five speed conversions for five years with no problems.
You might want to try Classic Sunbeam or (shudder) British Victoria for the
bushings. I'll be looking for a set soon myself, as I'm finally getting
around to restoring my MK II.
Good Luck. BTW, I still have this set of Dale's springs, if you really want
to try them.
John Webber
66 MK IA
67 MK II
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Mark,
If you would, please let me know what kind of "off list" response you
receive. My Tiger is in need of a new set of leaf springs as well (some
serious sag on the driver's side). I have secured an original pair off an
old Alpine springs that are pretty beat up but may do the trick. Not sure if
it is worth restoring them since the old British metal was pretty weak.
How much is Dale charging for the rear set these days? Do they come ready
mount with bushings and shackles?
I heard they are thinner than the originals.
--Paul
B9470867
---------------------
Mark,
Those rear bushing have been on the "not available" list for some time. Any
"new" design is not going to have the large diameter eye, or the offset
hole.
It all depends on the condition of your springs. If they are cracking or
worn separators, you may want to replace them. The most abuse is the top
spring with the eyes, and good spring shops can make new ones, but you need
that rubber. Good to hear Rick is getting them done. His stuff is always as
good as you can get, although sometimes the first lot gives the information
needed to make the second lot better.
Dale's work is always first class, but on the expensive side. His material
is generally designed for high performance and racing. If that is the
application, it would be better than stock. If not, it may be a
little stiff for road use. Especially if Delrin bushings (even the "soft"
ones are used. My Traction Master bolt-ons, however, do use the soft Delrin,
but they make the ride stiff anyway.
You pays your money, and you makes your choice.
I have the adjustable Koni's on the rear, and they are nice. Found the nuts
and rubber a little thicker than original, so the rubber cover was harder to
install.
Steve
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Hi Mark,
I went through the same analysis about 2 yrs ago. I did get the bushings
for the rear springs from Rick but never used them. I ended up buying new
rear springs from Dale. Mostly because I didn't feel like
cleaning up the old ones and dealing with pressing bushings. Plus new
Carerra shocks from Dale. I like the set up, although it is somewhat
stiffer than I'd like. The Carerra shocks have 3 settings and I ended up
running them on the lightest setting for general street use. I had hopes of
alot of autocrossing and some open track use, but time has not permitted.
I had also hoped that some of my wheel hop would go away with the springs
from Dale. I'd say most of it went away (I have bolt on traction bars) but
I still have some wheel hop, especially when tramping on it in a right hand
turn. I have the original non-posi rear end.
Dave
---------------------
The "new" adjustable Koni's from Sunbeam Specialties adjust with a supplied
tool from inside the trunk, under the rubber plug (or the top of the front
shocks) with just a turn. They do not require crawling
under the car to get to the side of the rear shock, and were specifically
created for Sunbeam Specialties and CAT by Koni, and not whatever fit, as
are the Spax models.
These are NOT like the normal Koni.
I have never had the Spax to define the handling difference, but those that
have had both, and race / auto-x say they are much better.
My Best, and now I have to get those down-pipes fitted around the starter
before Cer-coat. Wouldn't want to do it after.
Steve Laifman
---------------------
Mark,
I put Dale's springs in my Mk 1a after finding the stock rear main leaves
were snapped in half (still pondering that one -- good thing the car wore
Traction Masters and the axle stayed put. Anybody need some of the shorter
leaves? I only snapped the #2 and #3 leaves on the right side; the rest are
intact). Dale said the front and rear were matched for ride height, but I'm
not sure exactly what he meant -- my car does not have the same height as
before. The rear is definitely 1-1/2 to 2" lower than before, with 3.1"
ground clearance under the mufflers now. I'm wondering if longer custom
rear spring hangers would have flex problems. The springs have a slight
reverse arch in them once they're loaded. The car has 185/14's on the front
and 195/14's on the rear, so this bumped the rear up a little with the stock
rear springs, but it looked good to the eye. I put in Dale's 450# per inch
front coils while I was at it (with no rubber spacers) and the front sits
maybe a mite higher than it did with the 335#/in. springs that were in the
car when I bought it. Ride quality hasn't changed. Handling is still under
development since I haven't fine tuned the Spax shocks I put in and haven't
tried disconnecting the 1" hollow sway bar. I'm told full hard on
the front shocks and 1/2 hard on the rears will do for autocrossing, but
mine will be for street use. I still have the shocks set up fairly soft,
but already the stability during turns has improved.
BTW, Dale recommends shimming the sides of the spring eyes to preclude any
shifting around, and use locking nuts on the spring bolts, allowing them to
rotate as the spring moves around, rather than clamping them down tight. The
front rubber bushing is only 1/8" or so thick. The spring has a
normal-looking main leaf and the second leaf extends farther forward than
normal, all the way to the front eye, and wraps around the inside of the
main leaf's eye, around the bushing. Because of this, Dale recommends no
Traction Masters, saying the design of the spring acts as a traction bar; he
also recommends that while you're in there, remove the Panhard rod. Jesse
Rolin, one of our local Tiger Vintage road racers, uses Dale's rear springs
w/o TM's and Panhard rod (600#/in coils in front) and doesn't miss them,
even at the high speeds of Texas World Speedway.
Duncan
B9473116
Manor, Texas
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