At 04:32 PM 3/16/2001 EST, you wrote:
>Lexan with a scratch resistant coating will stay clear as long as you don't
>try to
>heat and bend it. The heating loosens the bond of the coating and in a short
>time it
>will cloud up
>
Didn't know the reason, but mine sure clouded up on the surface and
in fact the areas that had the most heat and bending were ther first to go.
Due to the 3d curve in the Tiger Hard top rear window I found that one
must heat the Lexan to make it fit in the rubber moulding. Without heating
and bending the Lexan would pull the molding out. I found it very difficult to
bend the Lexan even with heat. I built a curved plywood jig to hold the lexan
to the correct shape while heating bending and cooling. Used an industral
heat gun
to soften the Lexan. Not a very good job. Tried again with a hand built
insulated oven too heat the sheet up all at once. Desaster. Last time I
switched to
plexiglas instead of lexan. Removed the rubber molding, added a 1/2x1/16"
rubber
strip along the edge of the window opening. Used pop revits every 1" along the
edge to hold the plexiglass in with the 1/6" rubber strip under the plexiglas.
Didn't have to heat the plexiglas. Still need to figure out something to cover
all the revits and hold the trim strip.
I recommend buying a replacement window if you can find one. Likewise
a new rubber molding for the window. However, the last couple of time I bought
new rubber molding it was wrong, wrong, wrong!. Do not recall where I bought
the molding that was claimed to be for a Tiger Rear Hardtop window. I think
is was for an old Jeep instead of a Tiger or Alpine.
James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
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