Rebuilding a servo is not as daunting as you might think.
The instructions in the kit and also in the workshop manual
are quite good. Follow them to the letter and you'll be fine.
A few tips. (1) When unscrewing the end plate of the
vacuum canister, leave two screws loosely
attached. You'll need a screw driver to
wedge between the end plate and the tank.
Then look out, the tank will be full of brake
fluid. Also look out for the wife as this makes
a great finish remover for the dining room
table. Once drained, remove the remaining
screws carefully as the vacuum piston inside
the tank is spring loaded and wants to get
out real bad.
(2) Keep everything antiseptic and ultra clean.
(3) SK makes just the right size ciraclip pliers
pliers to reach down into the bore and remove
the ciraclip. Other makes just are too big or
short. Make the tool in the instructions to
keep you from gouching the aluminum bore
as you remove the ciraclip. A slip here makes
the booster is a candidate for a sleeve job.
(4) After reassembly, make sure the piston is
free to easily move in the canister. Lots of
Girling red rubber grease is needed. If the
piston hangs up, the brakes go on and don't
come off.
I've rebuild several without problems. Spare parts must
be scavenged from other boosters. Most people including
myself won't do it anymore because of liability.
But why rebuild, why not bypass. Most racers etc don't
have boosters. You just have to push harder on the stop
pedal.
Dave Johnson, B382002668, Aurora, IL
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