Hi Group. I am getting so bored without having any Tiger email, that I
am going to post a progress report on my ground up resto.
I am doing the front suspension, and have already completely welded the
front crossmember, as per old CAT/STOA tech tips. New bushings in the a
arms, and everything assembled and on the car. Left the nuts loose for
the front suspension, till I get some of the rough setting for alignment
and springs sorted out.
I am using CAT springs, but they were 1.5" too high. I cut the CAT
springs this
weekend, per a formula that John Logan supplied, and have them about
right for ride height. I noticed that when I get in the car, the
springs go down farther, especially on the left, which makes sense. No
jokes about my weight, as I am a very sensitive, delicate person.
This is to be expected, again no weight jokes, but I was surprised that
with the CAT springs, that had .82 coil cut out, and starting at 335 "/#
at first, that they would still go down 3/4" after cutting. The spring
rate should now be 370 "/#'s.
I may get Dale A's 440 springs, but will try driving with these springs,
after car has plates. Bob Palmer has provided a very convincing
argument for the Dale A springs.
Larry Wright's car has Dale A's springs in front and rear, and it drives
firm and nice, but not like a buckboard, as I thought it might. Larry
Wright's car also have firmer bushings, but again his car is firm and nice.
Started the alignment process, by first centering the Midget R&P, I have
the Dale A ackerman arm conversion, setting wheels straight by using the
rotors parallel with 2 tee squares and a straight edge.
I then disconnected the steering arms, and centered the steering wheel,
using two different methods. First was to mark the steering wheel at
full left, then right, and bring it back to center. Also used a plumb
bob on the steering arm to mark position on floor, with full left, then
right, cut distance in half, and the two different methods, checked out.
I checked the caster, camber and I need to add caster big time. Left
caster is +3/4 and right is -1 3/4. Should be +4 to +5 degrees.
Drove around the block, and car pulled to the right as it should with
the caster off on the right. Still no plates for car, and I am just
doing the basics.
The new caster/camber gauge is very good, from Longacre, and easy to
use. It bolts to the axle stub with an adapter, and compensates for
floors not exactly level. You can use trash bags under the front
wheels, if you don't have a turntable, as the bags cut down the
resistance when you turn the wheels to check out the caster.
I am going to add alum shims to the rear portion of the spacer under the
crossmember to bring the caster to at least +4 degrees and
possibly/hopefully +4 1/2 degrees. I will get each side the same, no
matter what the final caster is.
The camber is currently at -1/2 degrees on both sides. and I have not
set the toe in as I need to set the caster first and then camber.
I wanted to get the R&P centered, steering wheel in the right location,
and then check the alignment before going to the next step.
BTW, I cut the coils with a cut off grinder, and heated the coil end at 1/2
coil, bent down, and ground both side of bent coil so that it sits up
right. Had to add an old spacer to left side to get static height at
same level as right.
Car looks much better now that is is down 1 1/2" in front. Rear is
still up almost 2". Still don't know why so much as everything is free,
and the only thing I can think of is that the springs settled to their
original arch in setting for almost 14 months off the car, and when I
sand blasted them that they may have some work hardening to the metal.
Who knows.
Boy is this a long process. Still having fun, but would like to drive
car more than around the block. Get plenty of "Thumbs Up" for others in
the neighborhood. Nice, since they did not call Police on car with no plates.
Larry
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