We're not set up for painting, actually (when and if I need it, I'll get
Remi to do any bodywork/paint unless I could do some kind of deal with you
and your dad), but Top Gun is a good place to keep in mind for
powdercoating. Good thing, though, that I didn't do the powdercoating
_before_ discovering this little nugget of Tiger lore. Engine paint is
cheap, as well as being pretty tough. I think that the only stuff that's
really going to be brake fluid proof is model aircraft two-part epoxy paint,
but you'd have to do a little experimenting to find a suitable primer.
Regards,
Theo
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronak, TP (Timothy) [mailto:Timothy.P.Ronak@akzo-nobel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 6:56 PM
To: 'Theo Smit'; 'Fraser, Ron'; 'tigers@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: Dumb things that happen when you're in a hurry.
Theo,
I know that you are set up to paint at your shop but Top Gun coatings is
really close to you just off of Deerfoot and McKnight and they are pretty
reasonable $$$ for powder coating. The arms I got from Dale A. came powder
coated and it is pretty tough stuff.
Regards,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Theo Smit [mailto:theo.smit@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 1:40 PM
To: 'Fraser, Ron'; 'tigers@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: Dumb things that happen when you're in a
hurry.
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the info. Over lunch I went back to the shop,
pressed the ball
joint off the ring, and cleaned things up. It looks like the
pieces were
originally friction-welded together, and only about 3/4 of
the circumference
had ever been attached fully. I tacked things back together
(about seven 3/4
inch welds) and I was able to install the new balljoint with
no problems
(just lots of grunt on the press). I used red loctite
between the ball joint
and the ring - hopefully that (and the snap ring) will keep
things in place.
I had already installed new delrin bushings but maybe I'll
press things
apart again to re-weld the pivot bushings - looks like I'll
be repainting
the entire control arm, again...
Thanks again,
Theo
-----Original Message-----
From: Fraser, Ron [mailto:Ron.Fraser@usa.xerox.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 11:53 AM
To: 'Theo Smit'
Subject: RE: Dumb things that happen when you're in a hurry.
Theo
The splined ring was originally lightly tack welded
to the A arm.
I recommend you press the ring back on the A arm then weld
the circumference
to the A arm with the old ball join installed so the ring
does not warp. I
also recommend that you put added weld on the pivot bushing
cups but this
should only be done when you are replacing the bushings.
This is part of
the procedure to strengthen the crossmember that STOA and
CAT have
published.
Hope this helps.
Ron Fraser
-----Original Message-----
From: Theo Smit [mailto:theo.smit@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 1:34 PM
To: 'tigers@autox.team.net'
Subject: Dumb things that happen when you're in a hurry.
Hi all,
How exactly is the splined ring, that retains the upper ball
joint, attached
to the upper control arm? I am in the process of building a
set of front
suspension pieces, and after having pressed the balljoint in
at an angle
(that would be a result of the 'hurry' part) and then trying
to straighten
things out, the splined ring popped off of the control arm.
Probably a good
thing that it did it now, as opposed to when it's on the
car, but what's the
best way to reunite this ring and the control arm?
Regards,
Theo
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