Tom,
POR 15 is a very good product with some caveats:
1) BELIEVE IT, when they say you'll wear it if it drys on you. You should
look like one of those supplied air painting suits when you're working with
it, and keep some good quality laquer thinner nearby just in case.
2) As somone mentioned, topcoating is touchy. When completely cured, it's
like epoxy primer after the 'window' has closed (very hard and smooth, so
the topcoat won't grip), but the window closes really fast! Like two hours
or so if it's warm. Hit it when it's tacky and you've got a seal, but that
window is even shorter and you can theoretically lift the POR if you try too
soon. or the topcoat if you try too late.
The good points are:
1) It works. I did alot of prep down to bare metal with a rotary wire
brush, but that certainly didn't get to the bottom of the numerous pits.
POR and a 'holding' topcoat of DP90 (that's black DP40) have never been
broached after 10-12 years anywhere in alot of surface area of differing
initial condition.
2) Tim's way is undoubtedly the best, but this is alot less work
3) POR is like any coating, it will grip well if it was something to bite.
It stands for PaintOverRust, which you can do as long as it's not scale, but
sandblasted metal is perfect.
4) If #2 above sounds iffy, it's just a matter of practice, a few test
panels makes it easy.
Bill Hirsch is supposedly a POR 15 knockoff, so all of the above
probably applies. But do check Caroless (sp. -1, it's something like that)
from Eastwood. It often gets even higher marks than POR in reviews and I
think might be easier to work with.
Chris Hill
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