Hal,
Glad I had the foresight to read Dr. Bob's posting to you before I replied
so I will attempt to not be too redundant.
As a matter of fact, I just took on the rebuild yesterday and it has made a
great deal of difference.
Keep in mind that you will probably need compressed air to "entice" the
piston to come out of the cylinder. Obviously, be careful when doing this
not to shoot the piston clear across the garage, hitting your car and
damaging that fresh concours paint job, not to mention the piston!! :)
I agree with Bob regarding the rebuild of the clutch master cylinder and
pretty much utilize the same method he described. My personal belief is
that under no circumstances should you use or even need to use a cylinder
hone. If the cylinder is NOT substantially pitted, Bob's polishing method
will work just fine. If the cylinder is substantially pitted, then
replacement or sleeving is in order. Like Bob, I do use the honing tool
with Scotch Brite wrapped around the hone stones. It is wise in this case
to bind the stones together before wrapping them in Scotch Brite.
Typically, I use a small nylon speed tie or twist tie. In addition, I make
sure to soak the Scotch Brite in Brake Cleaner (alcohol) prior to the
polishing operation. Be sure to spray liberal amounts of Brake cleaner in
the cylinder after the polishing operation and blow out the cylinder with
compressed air. Also, polish the associated pistons with Scotch Brite as
well to remove surface staining. Prior to reassembly, make sure to coat the
cylinder with Brake Fluid as well as the internal rubber seals that come in
contact with the surface of the cylinder. At this point, I typically check
the operation of the piston with air.
One final suggestion is to rebuild BOTH the Clutch Master and Slave
cylinders at the same time. Typically, the heat near the slave usually
makes the seals degrade faster in the slave. (In my case, the header
collector is about one inch from the slave) Even if this is not the case,
figure that the seals on the slave and master will probably degrade at the
same rate, so you should probably rebuild both at the same time anyway.
Besides, you will have all of the tools out anyway, so why not get the car
in the air and do both? (This is also a good time to check the oil in your
trans and the differential lube as well.)
If you are pretty speedy, you can do both in about three to four hours by
yourself.
I hope the few minor additions to Bob's post were of assistance.
Regards,
Allan
B9472373
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Hal436@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:08 AM
To: Tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits
I need some assistance !
A friend of mine has recommended that I do not use a rebuild kit for the
Clutch Master Cylinder on my 1966 Tiger. He states that since the unit is
made of white metal there is probably excessive pitting and it will have to
be replaced within a short period of time. Is it a wise decision to attempt
to rebuild the unit ?
Thanks in advance for any information
Hal Jean
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