At 09:58 AM 4/5/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>Listers,
>From the casting and the paperwork I got with my Tiger it looks like I
>have
>351W heads on a 289.
>I heard a noise from the right valve cover the was not right.
>I removed the cover and found a broken rocker arm stud.
>I looked like it had a couple of fatigue cracks at the failure.
>I'll admit I'm a bit of a novice with these motors so could
>you experts help me with the following questions?
>
>1) What might have caused the fatigue and what should I
> pay attention to to avoid this failure.
>
>2) I did't lowere the coolant level and when I removed the stud a bit of
>water came
> out and ran down the oil passage. Dohh! I didn't know that these are
>through holes
> into the water jacket. What should I do to remove the water? Got an
>oil change routine?
>3) Any suggestions on a source for the rocker studs?
>
>4) Any comments on thigs to do during re-assembly
>
>And one more Tiger question. I previous posts the front suspention ball
>joint boots
>are the same as the type II VW Bus boots PN 211-405-375. Do any of you
>know of a source
>for the boots only? I've done internet searces and asked the local VW
>shops here in San Jose.
>
>Thanks for your help,
>Rick
>'66 Tiger B382002537
>
Rick,
The only time I have had a failure on 351W rocker arm studs
was when I installed screw in Studs from PAW. The rocker wore
slots in the side of the stud and one finally broke. Changed to
Mr. Gasket studs and never had another problem. If the stud that
broke on your head was the press in kind, then I recommend that you
convert to Mr. Gasket screw in studs. Do not recommend attempting
to press another stud in.
I have never seen water under the studs of any kind.
When you pull the heads to replace the studs with screw studs,
throw the cracked head away.
Do a valve job on the replacement heads if they are not
new or rebuilt already.
Clean the carbon from the piston top as well.
If you have aftermarket valve springs or if there are shims
under the springs then you may be getting coil bind. This can cause
a stud to break or be pulled out is it is not screw in. Like wise
be sure to check your push rods. Roll the cleaned push rod across
a plate glass and check for bending. Any gap seen under the
push rod is too much. Keep the push rods& rockers in order if you plan to
reuse the rockers and pushrods. Keep track of the "up" end
of the push rod as well for the replacement. The push rods and rocker
piviots wear together, so keeping them together make for a longer
lasting valve adjustment.
Drain the oil and remove the filter.
Assuming you have an oil cooler then blow all the old oil/water
out with an air hose. ( Makes a good mess).
Drop the oil pan and clean it out real well. This will get
rid of the water, gunk, broken valve stem seals and bearing
parts in the pan.
After cleaning the pan examine the rod and main bearings for wear
while you have it open. Plastigauge can be used to check the
clearances. If you find a worn rod bearing
and if the crank journels are smooth then replace the bearings with
the same size that is stamped on the bearing ( standard, or .10, .20).
Replace your oil pump with a high volume pump while you are at it.
If the crank is not smooth then time for a rebuild.
Rebuilt 351W heads from Ford are fairly cheap.
James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
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