Curtis,
I hope things went well with your start up. I left a lot out on my last post
but after seeing all the feedback thought I should elaborate.
The reason for the initial 15-20 minutes is that if it is a flat tappet cam
you are essentially starting the engine dry and need to start it and get the
lifters to seat into the lobs of the cam while there is suitable lubricant
available. Imagine that you start the car wear off some metal but it is not
washed away right away and then you stop the engine with the highly abrasive
metal still in and around the cam lobes. It would lead to a lot of wear in
the initial break in of the engine and could in fact begin a vicious cycle
of excessive wear one any particular lobe. If the engine has been broken in
on an electric motor then the rings have a preliminary seat but will still
need to be worn in.
As for how I have broken in "all" of our racing engines. We start with
Pennzoil 20/50 or another high quality mineral based oil for initial run in
to clean out all of the lubriplate and other stuff still in the innards.
Then once we reach operating temperature after "racing" the engine from
1500-2300 rpm. We shut it off, drain the oil, change the filter, replace oil
with Mobil 1. We fire it back up to ensure that everything is tight, then
shut it down. Set valves, timing, etc. go out and put about 100 miles under
load (or do a couple of dyno pulls) THEN GO RACING!!! If the engine is going
to fail it will show up quickly in the oberg. The key is to seat the rings
as the better the seating the less leakdown and the more power.
Regards,
Tim Ronak
B382000680
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