Tim,
I hope this helps some.
At 09:16 AM 10/20/99 -0500, Ronak, TP (Timothy) wrote:
>Listers....HELPP!!!
>I just started to rebuild the front suspension for my upcoming move to
>California as I will need to drive the car for a while as soon as I arrive.
>Last night I started dissassembling everything and found some interesting
>things and would like some feedback. I started the project and now there is
>no turning back as I need to re-assemble the car inorder to move it.
>
>Shocks: I have Konis but it seems that they collapse with only modest effort
>and then take significant effirt to extend ....is this normal??
This kind a asymmetrical shock is best suited for Buicks and similar
boulevard applications. What you want is something close to 50/50; i.e.,
equal resistance both ways. SS has Konis specially made for the Tiger.
Others have used Carrera (?) (I believe) shocks and like them. But, this
can wait until you have some time to spare as the Konis you have are
probably useable.
>Upper Contol Arm: I was undoing the bolts and did not leave the bolts in
>until all the bolts were out and I started to undo the last upper bolt and
>the retaining plate started to spin and ultimately turned into a big piece
>of spaggetti. Now I need to find this plate any suggestions where I can find
>one ... Sunbeam Specialties...any pieces out there.
Know anyone with an Alpine parts car?? You could call Smitty at
619-233-7937 and have him FedEx you one. Or, you could take a hammer to the
one you bent and try to straighten it. (Good therapy?)
>Lower Control Arm: I am installing new Bushings from S.S. and they look
>really nice! But a local Alpine guy indicated that if you install the lower
>fulcrum pin in backwards with the (pin swapping ends) you can improve Caster
>and make the car less twitchy at speed. Has anyone else done this out there
>and what are the suggestions.
I had Dale install his REALLY BEEFY Global West lower fulcrum pins four
years ago. This is what I would recommend you do - but not now I guess.
Previously, I had installed the stock fulcrum pins backwards myself.
Thought I was being really clever and did not know of anyone else doing the
same. Note, it does say in the Shop Manual NOT to do this. The only
consequence I can see is that the lower spring mount will be slightly
shifted forward. Of course, it's important to make the change on both sides
- which may be the reason for the statement in the Shop Manual. You can
also get more caster by adding a small - maybe 1/8" shim between the cross
member and the frame at the back two bolt locations. You'd like to have
around 5 degrees of caster.
>Springs: I have stock ones and was thinking of going to the Sunbeam
>Specialties 335 lbs.per inch springs but I do not want to change ride height
>although I would like a little firmer ride.
Tim, I think I know you well enough to believe you will be unhappy with
springs this soft. Call Dale's Restorations (909-799-2099) and order a set
of 400-450 lb/in springs. Get new isolator donuts from SS if Dal's doesn't
have them.
>How many shims do you have in the front suspension as I would like to order
>some to ensure that I have the full length shims.
Again, I disagree with the Shop Manual in this regard. A lot of us,
probably most of us, use separate shims front and back so you can
independently adjust caster and camber. Get yourself an assortment at the
local front end shop. The number of shims you need, and how equal they are
left and right side, will give you a pretty good idea what kind of shape
the cross member is in. If you have too much camber, or it's very
asymmetric, then there's a problem. Are you going to do the alignment
yourself? You can do a pretty good job with a few simple tools. If the car
pulls to the left or right, increase the caster on the side it pulls
toward. Camber has only a slight effect on pulling left or right and you
can set it pretty equal on both sides using a carpenter's level. Toe-in is
probably the hardest to get right. Most front-end shops don't do a good job
either. I use a straight piece of 8' electrical conduit to start with. Just
hold it against the outside of each front wheel to get a rough idea of the
alignment. Set the steering wheel square first, then adjust each wheel
straight ahead. Once you have it looking about right, you need to do the
"fine tune", which of course is impossible with the one full turn minimum
adjustment of the Tiger's tie rod ends. I use a trammel set and mark the
distance between marks on the tires at the rear, then role the car forward
one-half rotation of the wheels and measure it again. But you can probably
get it close enough to drive for awhile by just eyeballing it with the
piece of conduit. When you get to warm and sunny So. Cal., just drive it
down to Vista and we'll finish up the alignment together in my garage.
Maybe you should call Theo and get his help! Now that you've buttered him
up on the List, he should be a pushover. ;-)
Well, TTFN
>Please help if you can as I am pressed to get this done as soon as possible
>before the garage gets to 20 below or the movers show up.
>Thanks everyone!!!!
>Regards,
>Tim Ronak
>B382000680
Robert L. Palmer
UCSD, Dept. of AMES
619-822-1037 (o)
760-599-9927 (h)
rpalmer@ucsd.edu
rpalmer@cts.com
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