OK, Steve
I'll help you out with my own experiences.
First, however, you should know that the drip of water from the upper corner,
where the top meets the windshield, and drips on your left knee, is a stock
factory 'feature'. Get a waterproof baby bib to tie on your leg. Don't forget
to
take it off before you go into the office. {9->
All right, now the serious stuff. Be warned. This is not a very technically
challenging operation, but is difficult to describe. I would have been much
briefer, but didn't have the time. If you don't have any of these problems
(yet),
put this away for a time when reading these details will be of more value.
steve sage wrote:
> I do get a bit of a drip from under the driver's side dash (not
> much) and I'm going to seal the washer and wiper pieces to stop
> anything there.
May be the run-off from the aforementioned window/top factory leak coming down
the
windshield frame to the dash. So if you fix it, it goes back on your knee. The
other seals you mention should be replaced, if cracked. S.S. has them, but
there
is a trick to getting the washer seals in and out. Got to remove the washer
hose
and the small nut on the other end of that nozzle, the nozzle, and the chrome
top
piece. It will then be able to be pushed out. Need a little screwdriver to get
the blades of by moving the retaining clip
> Tonight I installed a new driver's door to window outside seal (the
> piece that goes the length of the top of the door). It's a SS piece.
I presume you mean Sunbeam Specialties, not stainless steel (as some have done).
Good quality, but really tough to get on the front clip. May need a new set of
clips. S.S. has those too.
> Install went very easily. However, it does not make a complete seal.
> When the window is up, the rubber does not seal along the complete
> length of the window and "bows" out a bit at a couple of spots. Also,
> where it runs along the window "wind wing" glass chrome piece, there is
> also a signifigant gap where water will flow down. Is this a defective
> design on this piece of trim? Did the original seal completely?
Sounds like you definitely need the new clips, and some work on the inside door
edge curl where the clip slots are located. If this edge is not straight, or the
slots are twisted in or out, the piece wont sit straight.
First, you should really examine that inside fuzzy strip. It's not supposed to
have a chrome bead, but it's hard to find some that aren't. These are bent at
the
rear, and are not difficult to install if the length is already correct. Better
to
do it now. Same thing with the rear and two front window glass channel guide
strips. Requires glass removal.
Back to your outside strip.
The side panels need to be off (sounds like you are already there) and, if your
fingers are agile and you have forceps from Harbor Freight, you may not have to
remove the window (a bear). You will have to remove the fixed side window (you
know, the one that opens on other cars). This allows you access to that pesky
first clip.
The drip seal is slotted at the front, for the chrome you have removed (many
screws later). You can work from back to front, if you know the overall length
is
correct, or vice versa. These spring steel clips go on first by snapping in the
slot, with the little seal gripper 'teeth', on the upper part of the clip,
against
the inner door edge. Seat firmly. Using a forceps to keep the clip on the
body,
or a downwards push of another screwdriver to keep the clip in place whilst
prying
( with a small screwdriver) the gripper toothed top of the clip away from the
inner door edge, and pushing the molding in-between, and then allow the teeth to
bite.
This operation needs at least three hands. As you go, the outer fender edge
should be laying smoothly against the outer door skin, and the inside corner of
the strip should be tight against the body. If it's not, something is wrong,
and
you will end up with the situation you described. Keep the strip close to the
top
of the clips, as you go, so it won't bend the steel center, or kink it. You
will
be dropping clips to the bottom of the door frequently.
I've found that first clip the most difficult to get a proper grip on. Worked
it
so many times that the strip rubber tore, exposing the metal core, and those
little teeth had no good purchase. At the end, everything should fit strait,
true, and be tight. The window IS adjustable (a little) with some difficult to
reach screws along the mounting perimeters.
> I took the door panel off today (driver's door) to see what's inside.
> The insulation piece that's stuck to the door inside is peeling off a
> bit so I'll glue that back on. However, the plastic sheet that I've been
> told channels water away from the inside bottom of the door is only
> evidenced by a small piece coming off the bottom of the window channel
> (where the window sits in it). The rest of it must have disinigrated
> over 32 years. I can't figure from where to where this sheeting is
> supposed to go. Has anyone done this job?
YES. A bad example of how it was done, with a yellow caulk that dried to
crackable consistency long ago, should still be in evidence. The purpose, as
you
say, is to channel inner door water to the bottom of the door, where the drip
holes (if they are not plugged) let it out on the outside of the car. It also
protects that marvelous cardboard door upholstery backing from disintegrating
(faster).
My solution was to find some heavy gauge plastic sheeting. Had some large
package,
with about a 6 to 8 mil milky plastic protective cover, and saved it. Using the
door upholstery as a guide (or the yellow glue line left on the door, I cut out
a
one piece strip for each side. Don't get a really thin plastic here (3 mil), as
it won't last long. Holes need be made for the door and window handles, the
upholstery mounting clips are outside the plastic, so cut it such that this is
true. Don't worry about the door pull, the screws will take care of that.
Scrape off all that yellow crud, and clean the area as best you can. When I had
my front window replaced, after painting the frame, I found the glass man had
some
great looking black sticky stuff on a roll with a paper-type separator. I talked
him out of some left over roll ends. Great stuff. Can be used for this, and
for
the gas filler cap seal replacement. An automotive paint store will have the
equivalent material, as used for gas cap seals, etc. Some come in rolls, others
in a box of little rods, but I don't believe they are as sticky. Rolling this
stuff in your hands, like clay, to make a 1/4 inch round ‘spaghetti', as you go
around, put it on the outer perimeter of were the yellow stuff was (or inside
the
panel hole snaps. Then another perimeter around the window crank and the door
handle crank where the surface is flush with the inner door skin area.
Progressively, apply the plastic film to sticky, keeping it as taught as you
can.
When you are finished, cut off the excess plastic, beyond about 1/2 to 3/4
inches
from the seal. If you ever have to remove it, it can be done, and replaced.
While you're in there, you will notice a rolled up piece of tar roofing paper at
the bottom of your door. This is the 'sound deadening insulation. Fuzzy glue
remains on the inner door panel. Interestingly enough, there was no evidence
that
the passenger side door ever had any such insulation. Maybe it had to do with a
decision that only the driver should be isolated from the noise??? I've heard
this from others, as well. Removing the excess glue and cleaning down that are
would be a good thing to do now. It is accessible with the window up.
The auto paint store carries a line of rubbery sticky back sound deadening 12"
squares in packages. I used 9 squares and insulated both doors. The 12"
squares
fit along the inside bottom door edge and three makes it across the door.
Cutting
another three into 6 x 12 inch squares takes care of the top of the rubber to
the
top of the door. Some cut-outs for the side molding rivets, and attention to
the
corners where the door handles are is necessary. Closes like a refrigerator.
Sound level way down.
> That being said, water leaking down the window is going to end up at the
>bottom
> of the inside of the door but I can not see any evidence of drain holes for
> this.
> Where is that water supposed to end up and exit the door? This sure
> seems like a silly design! Wouldn't it have made a lot more sense to
> just design a window seal that prevents water getting into the door in
> the first place?
Well, now that you mention it, I can't find them either. I know my Mustang had
them. Maybe they were just planning ahead for the Mk III? Anyway, how can the
English build something that doesn't leak? I KNOW!! Where it's meant to rust
away! Anyway, if you do the seals at the top right, it shouldn't leak. My
outer
seal rides against the glass (except where I couldn't get that first clip.)
> Since the "interior flood", I've added a strip of aftermarket rubber
> trim to the body an inch or so below where the stock door trim closes
> onto the body when you shut the door. Now I don't see the ground at the
> front of the door which seems to be a common problem, plus this should
> stop water from splashing up into the door and the car. Not having a
> rain since, though, I don't know if this will solve the problem there.
A good solution. When I replaced the 'fuzzy rubber' with some cloth covered
rubber from Classic Sunbeam it was thicker than original. Luckily it fit just
fine, didn't even have to use those little corner rivets, and I extended it past
the horizontal piece and 'tacked' it to the door where there was no clip. Does
an
excellent job. May have to tuck excess rubber in as you install it between the
windshield and the riveted outer drip molding, but that's easy with a putty
knife
(a required tool for rubber installation).
Since we live in the same area, and both have "no rain", sometimes there are
unexplained deep channels of water at intersections which seem to splash upwards
into those very channels, and some ignition systems. Can't figure out where it
came from. Ocean backing up? Where is that water coming from that gets your
pants wet, then? {9->
BTW: CAT Warehouse has those little rubber caps that go on top of the
windshield
vertical rubber.
> Sorry about going on and on but hopefully some of you can offer some
> additional advice.
>
> Thanks.
> Steve Sage
Sorry about going on, and on with answering all your questions. Hope it helps
some.
Steve (the younger one. {9->)
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
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