All- My Traction Master traction bars were not installed as received.
The center alignment hole (of the main sring-to-u-bolt plate) didn't
match the diameter of my spring's alignment pin washer. I simply made a
new bracket with my existing u-bolt plate. I had previously modified my
rack of springs and found that the bar touched the the underneith side
of the springs as well. I corrected this problem with an additional
washer-plate for the front spring-clamp bar. Anyone installing these
thmeselves should be sure that the hole in the differential u-bolt plate
fits tightly with the external edge of the round alignment washer.
Spring movement would result if the fit is not precise.
Chris in Trinidad
Steve Laifman wrote:
>
> Mark Fridenstine wrote:
>
> > Steve:
> > I have a set of Bolt on traction bars I bought form a guy in Wash.
>State, about a
> > year ago. Are they hard to put on by myself, of do I need a mechanic???
> > Thank, Mark
>
> Mark,
>
> Not sure whose you bought, but I hope it has not got those heim swivel ball
>joints, or
> you have your eye-teeth anchored firmly. I believe Larry Atkinsson made a
>very nice
> set. On his last run I was ordering some, when he recommended the new
>Traction Master
> production run.
>
> In either event, installation is not difficult. There are a few tricks, of
>course. The
> New Traction Master design has all four holes in the bottom plate, instead of
>the
> original 3. Never understood that original design, but if yours are like
>that, you have
> to get longer U-bolts, and trim the excess after, as it goes under the
>existing plate.
> The newer design replaces the plate, so the same bolts are fine (if they are
>in good
> shape. You might want to consider a locking type nut.
>
> Before you start unbolting those plates, you better jack the car up, put
>supports on the
> body, and remove the wheels.
>
> The front end of the spring must be changed. BOTH of the straps around the
>front spring
> bundle must be turned so that the clamp bolt is on top. These should have
>rubber
> between the clamp and the spring pack. Replace the rubber if it's bad. This
>is easy
> enough, as you just remove the bolt, spread the clamp a bit, and rotate it
>around and
> re-tighten. You should mount the Traction Master on the U-Bolts before you
>tighten the
> forward clamp loosely, so it is just behind where the bar clamp will go.
>
> There is a small plate under the 4 hole original plate. Remember to put it
>back. The
> bolt through the springs just goes through the holes in the plates, like
>normal.
>
> Taking the U-Bolts off is easy, but they tend to spread after removal, and
>may need to
> have the sides squeezed together to fit back in. A very large clamp, or a
>very strong
> friend can help compress it to fit back into the holes. A large slotted
>pliers may help.
> The bar should point forward, with the flat part of the front angle able to
>swing
> against the front of the spring. If it's the vertical part of the angle,
>you've got it
> facing the wrong way. {9->
>
> After you have torqued the U-bolts, then bring the front clamp up to the
>forward spring,
> ahead of the spring clamp. Use the bolts supplies (grade 8) and the upper
>flat piece
> and lightly put the piece together. I used some rubber gasket around this
>clamp to
> prevent metal-to-metal contact, and potential wear, and sharp corner forces
>at the
> clamp. Your call.
>
> Put the wheels back on, bring the car down, drive around the block a few
>times, and let
> it cool down. By this time the springs should be at their normal ride
>height. Don't
> jack the car back up again, or you would lose the ride height. Clamp the
>front bar
> assembly tightly, then slide the spring clamp forward and tighten it. You're
>done.
>
> You may find the ride a bit choppier, and stiffer, but that's because you have
> effectively made half your spring inflexible. There seems to be less body
>roll, too. I
> have adjustable rear Koni shocks, but haven't touched them. They are at the
>factory
> setting. Wouldn't be sure which way to turn them, as it seems OK, with maybe
>less
> bottoming on speed bumps. The axle wrap up disappeared, and I get no hop when
>leaving
> rubber.
>
> May be some added stresses in the front spring clamp area, and if you are
>really going
> to treat it roughly, as in Auto-X or competition racing, you might consider
>beefing up
> this front chassis area with web plates before installing.
>
> Remove front spring eye to prevent weld heat damage. Shouldn't be necessary
>unless you
> have an Alpine chassis (with fewer continuous welds, I am told) or weakening
>due to
> rust. I have heard that the front spring clamp tends to cause premature
>cracking around
> the clamped area, but do not know this for a fact. The other weld-on choice
>has so many
> other problems that this is the better choice, in my opinion.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Steve
>
> Anybody out there want to assemble my collection of suspension comments, from
>the list
> members, for the web site??????
>
> --
> Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
> B9472289 < important in your life >
> < and don't let it get away!>
>
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