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Re: inquiry 082599a

To: "Wright, Larry" <larry.wright@usop.com>
Subject: Re: inquiry 082599a
From: James Barrett <jamesbrt@mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 18:03:27 -0400
Larry,
        Go buy yourself a long 9/16"-1/2" box end wrench.
Heat the wrench about 1/2" away from the end and bend
a right angle.  Slip the wrench over the main nut and
then use a socket to tighten the jam nut.  Tighten till the
flats of the two nuts line up so you can remove the wrench.


At 07:39 AM 8/25/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Mark L. wrote:
>>Larry,
>>If I remember correctly I slipped  a socket 
>>over the lower nut, the shaft extended through 
>>the hole in the top of the socket.  I believe I turned 
>>the socket with pliers while holding the squared off 
>>end of the shaft with a small adjustable wrench.
>
>>Also,  most of these shocks and struts can be loosened 
>>or tightened without special tools that hold anything if 
>>you have access to an impact wrench and can spin them 
>>on or off.  I found this out on a Volvo strut after trying 
>>for two hours.    
>
>       Thanks, Mark. I got a couple of responses like that; sadly, I'm
>not sure how that can help. Let me clarify. I can get to the shaft
>easily enough. Yeah, I could turn the lower nut while holding the shaft
>to tighten it -- as long as the upper nut went along for the ride, or
>wasn't there at all. The problem is getting the nuts not to back off in
>use. This is normally by 'jamming' the upper and lower nuts, one against
>the other; hence 'jam nuts'. By definition, this means two wrenches, the
>shaft can stay put or turn a bit,  I'm not certain it's important. But
>the two wrenches on the nuts is the big deal, as the lower one is
>_below_ the sheet metal level. 
>       I guess I could substitute the pair of jam nuts for a Nylock
>nut, and/or use Loctite, but I'd figure someone else had changed their
>shocks before, and run into the problem and resolved it. I'm reduced to
>silly schemes like finding (???) a 9/16" ignition wrench, if there's
>such a thing, and sliding it into the space between the two layers of
>sheet metal with tweezers, where I could maneuver it onto the lower nut.
>Then turning the upper nut w/a 2nd wrench, the lower one would be 'held'
>by being trapped against the sides of the sheetmetal "well" all of this
>activity is taking place in. It would then be tough to get the ignition
>wrench back out. Somebody please save me from such silliness.
>       I guess no one knows the torque settings for the leaf spring
>shackle bolts, so I'll try 40 ft-lbs.
>
>Lawrence R. Wright
>Purchasing Analyst
>Andrews Office Products Div. of USOP
>larry.wright@usop.com (new)
>Ph. 301.386.7923  Fx. 301.386.5333
>
>
James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others



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