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Stainless Steel

To: <daniel@htg.net>
Subject: Stainless Steel
From: "Tim Ronak" <timinvan@fox.nstn.ca>
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 09:37:45 -0600
Dan and listers,
I forgot to address the clear coating issue.
Long answer:
There are only a few clears that actually stick to Aluminum and none that i
know of that stick to stainless steel. I hate to say this but my company
Sikkens, to my knowledge, does not make a clear that has etching properties
necessary for adhesion to a bare aluminum surface. I do believe that Standox
or Spies Hecher do make such a product although I wonder why you would want
to do that.
I understand that you might want to avoid the incredibly relaxing task of
periodically carressing the more intimate portions of the Sunbeam Tiger but
understand that paint damages easier than steel or aluminum. Stainless
should not be cleared at all because it is soooo durable. Aluminum however
oxidizes very quickly and can look shabby in a short period of time. If you
use your car for auto crossing and get the brakes really hot you run the
risk of yellowing the clear and the only correction is to strip off all of
the clear and start again. If your intention is general street use it would
probably be just fine as long as you clean them carefully. But, be sure that
your wheels are not porous as a fellow Tiger guy here in Calgary (Roy Reed)
had his original LAT 70 wheels painted Silver and they looked great! Once he
put tires on the wheels 2 of them bubbled due to air seeping through the
Aluminum!
Short Answer:
Stainless shouldn't need to be cleared.
Aluminum can be but be sure you use the correct type of clear and don't use
it for high heat applications.
Regards,
Tim Ronak
B382000680


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